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Routes in Sidewinder Rock - West Face

Diamondback T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Invisible Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jumping Jack Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King Pin T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kingsnake T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Skinny Dip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Venucian Fece T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Long, November 1972
Page Views: 3,396 total, 17/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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43 Opinions

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Description

A good excercise in thin hands jamming (even if the crux is short). Start about 65 feet left of Sidewinder and climb the obvious chimney (5.9) to where it ends at a small roof, with a thin crack above. This chimney is unprotected unless you bring a large 4-5 inch cam. At the roof, there is good pro.

Place a piece or two above the roof, then use bad jams, stems and body english to work your way up until you can get a thin hands jam and bring your feet up over the lip of the roof. Once you've established yourself in the crack above, the difficulties ease.

Descend off back of the crag (downclimb a crack or jump 12+ feet down); or jump to top of pinnacle to left and rappel off.

Protection

0.5 to 2.5 inches protect upper crack fine; Bring a 4 inch piece if you need pro for the chimney.
Max Rausch
Monterey, California
 
Max Rausch   Monterey, California
 
Very intimidating from the ground with what looks like bad gear. To my surprise it took great gear the whole way. Chimney was strenuous, slightly flared, but went well with a right side chicken wing + knee bars. Felt like valley 5.9ish. I had a very difficult time establishing my feet above the roof. The locks are decent, but the tight hands pod bottoms out. I made the mistake of taping my hands and I suffered. My partner led it with a couple hangs at the crux, and I followed with a few hangs. Nov 20, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Lucas fell ~ 150 feet to the deck and sustained fatal injuries when a piece of rock his partner characterized as "unstable" gave way. Tragic. RIP, Lucas. Jun 30, 2015
Was just thinking that, Guy Mar 31, 2015
Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
Lucas.... RIP, Lad. Mar 31, 2015
Lucas Dunn
San Marcos
 
Lucas Dunn   San Marcos
 
Protected chimney with #4 and #5 camalot's, super solid pro. Really physical climbing at the crux. Feb 19, 2012
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
 
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
 
Went to do Sidewinder. people on it. I had #6 cam with me. So I led Jumping Jack. The chimney is 5.9 I protected it with 4.5 Cam and a #6 Cam so I felt safe. The crux was coming out from the roof into the thin finger crack. I went to pull the roof, very awkward. Then fell. Good gear #3 orange metolius cam. Gave another go then pulled the move Very tough climb. i felt like I was going to puke when I got to the top. Done it recently and still fell going over the roof. I'll get this climb clean one day! Feb 27, 2008
tony grice  
 
NIce tight hands crux if you like that kind of stuff. I took lumps. will redpoint, that byaatch. Takes great gear, just dont put it i n your jams! Nov 10, 2006