Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Long, November 1972
Page Views: 4,299 total · 21/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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A good excercise in thin hands jamming (even if the crux is short). Start about 65 feet left of Sidewinder and climb the obvious chimney (5.9) to where it ends at a small roof, with a thin crack above. This chimney is unprotected unless you bring a large 4-5 inch cam. At the roof, there is good pro.

Place a piece or two above the roof, then use bad jams, stems and body english to work your way up until you can get a thin hands jam and bring your feet up over the lip of the roof. Once you've established yourself in the crack above, the difficulties ease.

Descend off back of the crag (downclimb a crack or jump 12+ feet down); or jump to top of pinnacle to left and rappel off.


0.5 to 2.5 inches protect upper crack fine; Bring a 4 inch piece if you need pro for the chimney.


tony grice  
NIce tight hands crux if you like that kind of stuff. I took lumps. will redpoint, that byaatch. Takes great gear, just dont put it i n your jams! Nov 10, 2006
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
Went to do Sidewinder. people on it. I had #6 cam with me. So I led Jumping Jack. The chimney is 5.9 I protected it with 4.5 Cam and a #6 Cam so I felt safe. The crux was coming out from the roof into the thin finger crack. I went to pull the roof, very awkward. Then fell. Good gear #3 orange metolius cam. Gave another go then pulled the move Very tough climb. i felt like I was going to puke when I got to the top. Done it recently and still fell going over the roof. I'll get this climb clean one day! Feb 27, 2008
Lucas Dunn
San Marcos
Lucas Dunn   San Marcos
Protected chimney with #4 and #5 camalot's, super solid pro. Really physical climbing at the crux. Feb 19, 2012
Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
Lucas.... RIP, Lad. Mar 31, 2015
Trad Princess
Not That Into Climbing
Trad Princess   Not That Into Climbing
Was just thinking that, Guy Mar 31, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Lucas fell ~ 150 feet to the deck and sustained fatal injuries when a piece of rock his partner characterized as "unstable" gave way. Tragic. RIP, Lucas. Jun 30, 2015
Max Rausch
Portland, OR
Max Rausch   Portland, OR
Very intimidating from the ground with what looks like bad gear. To my surprise it took great gear the whole way. Chimney was strenuous, slightly flared, but went well with a right side chicken wing + knee bars. Felt like valley 5.9ish. I had a very difficult time establishing my feet above the roof. The locks are decent, but the tight hands pod bottoms out. I made the mistake of taping my hands and I suffered. My partner led it with a couple hangs at the crux, and I followed with a few hangs. Nov 20, 2017
Matt Hagny
Matt Hagny  
The offwidth/flaring chimney part is harder than Championship Wrestling (5.9). And the thin hands part w/ high step is nearly as hard as anything on Hot Rocks. My ass was thoroughly kicked! 3 hours ago