Sidewinder
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01865, -116.16611 |
| FA: | Kevin Worral & Eric Schoen, June 1974 |
| Page Views: | 14,030 total · 49/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jul 14, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Begin in the center of the formation at a left-facing flake and climb up this to a bolt. Thin face past the bolt is the crux and leads into a left leaning arch to slanting crack which ends at the obvious dike. Mantle up, clip a solitary bolt and make a long, thought-provoking traverse up and left until able to get some gear in a slanting crack before the top.
To descend downclimb/leap across a gap to reach a pinnacle with rap anchors located to the climber's left.
Although not as scary as it might look, it's still somewhat run out and not recommended unless solid at the grade.
Location
Approach from Hidden Valley Campground by skirting along the south end of The Blob and then following a trail along the west face (passing Hobbit Roof) to the mouth of Steve Canyon. As an alternative park on the Quail Springs Road (the main road) and follow a trail leading east towards The Blob and Steve Canyon.
Sidewinder climbs face and cracks up to an obvious left-slanting dike system on the large west-facing formation at the mouth of Steve Canyon.



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