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Routes in Sidewinder Rock - West Face

Diamondback T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Invisible Touch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jumping Jack Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King Pin T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kingsnake T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sidewinder T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Skinny Dip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Venucian Fece T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Long and Phil Warrender, September 1972
Page Views: 6,693 total · 38/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Sep 26, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is located up and around the corner from Sidewinder and is worth doing if you can be assured of not falling. It is unique in that it climbs a nice crack into a squeeze-through "tunnel", out the other side, and continues up a chimney to the top. Larger-hipped individuals will have difficulty with the squeeze (it isn't called Skinny Dip by mistake). The chimney definitely warrants an "R" rating.

Rap from 2-bolt anchor as for Invisible Touch.

Protection

Not much for the upper section. Bring nothing smaller than .75 Camalot.
Randy  
The Chimney is only about 5.4; the crux is the crack and tunnel through. Alternatively, you can merely end the route once you reach the bottom of the chimney; descend east (easy). Still 5.7, and good pro, but you really don't feel like you went anywhere. Oct 29, 2003
Darren D.
  5.7 R
Darren D.  
  5.7 R
I wouldn't recommend this one to anyone with a waist size greater then 32...or a female...or if you're claustrophobic. It's still kind of a memorable experience trying to worm through that opening. Mar 28, 2007
Adam D
Los Osos, CA
 
Adam D   Los Osos, CA
 
The tunnel through is fun and worth doing... Dec 25, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
My bet is that Largo wasn't large-o when he did this route...dang, we're near the same size now it seems and I'll be darned if I can fit through that thing. Hips wasn't the issue, was my manly (debatable!) chest size. Too mucho!

Pain in the arse to bail from. Thank goodness for the bolted line to the right... Jan 1, 2008
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Now this was a real puzzle for me. I ended up somehow going through feet first and almost upside down. What a hoot! A must.....try. Mar 17, 2008
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Aha...I feel better now...(conversation from the super taco):

"John, you don't, by chance, NOT fit through Skinny Dip (Steve Canyon, J Tree) now?
We're nearly the same size, but, in your younger years you musta been thinner (or "thin enough").
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
-------
Funny you should mention it. I did the FA on Skinny Dip when I was in high school and still sort of skinny. Went back to it in college and I could no longer fit through the gash in Skinny Dip. Not even close.
JL" Dec 12, 2008
I agree that this climb should not be attempted if your waist size is larger than 32...May be it was just the way I went about it, but it is a route that can get you stuck...better be skinny to take the dip. Mar 26, 2009
Pete eye
Fort Collins, CO
Pete eye   Fort Collins, CO
Love the "improbable" tunnel through. Plan on getting stuck...at least for a minute. Bailed on my helmet (just in time for the unprotected chimney) to fit, then somehow got low and stepped through the thing. A must do! Jun 8, 2009
Stormeh
 
Stormeh  
 
Tried this route on lead for the first time in 3 years and couldn't fit through. 3 years ago when I did it, I fit through but had no rack on me as I was on TR. Probably also skinnier then. FYI, I am 5'10 150lbs and couldn't do it. I have fairly broad shoulders and chest though, but still, you do need to be skinny. Bailed off the bolt to the right of the orifice. Oct 31, 2011
Mae Rae  
Tried it yesterday and could not fit through the hole. I'm 5'8" 150lbs with a 33 inch waist. I agree that 32 inch waist is probably the limit on this one. Feb 10, 2012
matt c.  
i have 34 inch waist. Weigh 185. I have fairly broad shoulder and chest. Neverless,I fit without too much problem.
It did take a few minutes and I had to take of a layer in route but I fit. It's a hoot! Dec 14, 2014
caesar.salad
earth
caesar.salad   earth
Last year I saw a girl soloing this in super short shorts and the wind was howling through the chimneys. She was all scratched up and despite it being cold as hell she looked like she was having a blast. So bad ass. Oct 1, 2017

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