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Routes in The Oyster Bar

Bearded Oyster T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boner Donor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buckets of Blort T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I Saw Elvis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oyster Bar, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Path Of The Oyster S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stress Puppet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: (TR) Kurt Smith 1985 FL: Jim Thornburg, John Clark, Troy Mayr & Jeff Webb 1989
Page Views: 1,942 total, 11/month
Shared By: Josh Beck on Apr 4, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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19 Opinions

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Description

The righthand route in the Oyster Bar, sustained thin edging up a vertical face on excellent quality patina and knobs make this a very fun and reasonably pumpy (for the length of the route) outing.

Protection

5 bolts, bolted anchor / rappel.

Photos

Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
Possibilities:

1) This thing is way hard for 11b
2) Everything is hard in Josh
3) I suck
4) Ouch, my fingers!!!
5) all of the above

The Miramontes description is spot on. It said something like, "This route starts out with decent edges. Then, after several crux moves you realize it's not a crux and that's just how the route is." Apr 22, 2015
Phil Esra  
 
Into the shade at 1ish pm in April. Sharp crimps--wasn't interested in spending my fingertips on this one. Stick clipped *2nd* bolt from boulder. Apr 7, 2015
Alan Doak
boulder, co
Alan Doak   boulder, co
The edges are sharp and thin. Tastes like burning! Jan 2, 2014
These are great routes. Too bad I had to sit and watch my friends climb them. I would not recommend making this your last stop of the week. Sharp thin crimps are the bounty on this wall making it not so ideal after a week straight thinning your tips to bloody scabs. Mar 12, 2013
This particularly small face would be sunny around midday (+/- hr or two). The balance of the escarpment is sunny for the rest of the afternoon. Feb 13, 2009
Eli Stein
Soulthern Caliswag
Eli Stein   Soulthern Caliswag
when does this route get sun (in feb)?
thanks for the beta! Feb 12, 2009
Oyster Delicacy? Jan 5, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
While looking at this route from the base it looks grim. Steep and thin = grim!! You'll also notice that if you blow the second clip you're going to bottom out on the starting block so beware.

The first 3 bolts were as expected steep but amazingly had pretty positive holds. After the 3rd bolt I was either starting to burn out of having trouble finding the right holds. Too much shopping for the right edges used up the last of my gas and I hung. Dang! The next several moves are small and hard with things starting to ease up as you go for the top.

Fun route - must do for the area. Easy to set up a TR if you don't have a solid leader.

~Susan Mar 14, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Watch out for the afternoon sun in March as the wall goes into the shade. You will need welders goggles to see any holds out left. You'll need the holds out there, but you ain't gonna see them..... There is a 3/8" bolt with no hanger right on the summit at the top of the route. You can hang a wired nut on this as a directional for the followers if you are toproping off the rap chains. Mar 14, 2007
TrevorB
  5.11a
TrevorB  
  5.11a
Super fun, if you're into thin steep edges. Great photo ops if your cameraperson hikes up to the right of the rock, it gives an expansive look of the whole Sheep's Pass area. A little bummed that there wasn't actually an oyster bar (or a regular bar even) up there; a guy can get pretty thirsty hiking up that far... Jun 22, 2004
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
I'm quite happy with the 5.11b rating. Not a super technical route, but if you have weak fingers (or are overweight) don't expect much luck here. Unless, of course, I'm missing something. Apr 11, 2003
C Miller
CA
  5.11a
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a
Somewhat sustained vertical thin crimps up solid edges. This route is noticeably easier than the one to the left.

Aka Oyster Delicacy. Apr 8, 2003