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Routes in The Oyster Bar

Bearded Oyster T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boner Donor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buckets of Blort T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I Saw Elvis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oyster Bar, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Path Of The Oyster S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stress Puppet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 33 ft
FA: Ronnie Miller & Tad Newman, 1998
Page Views: 70 total · 1/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Mar 14, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is easy to see when you are doing the real routes at the Oyster Bar. I hear that you can wander a bit around the bolts to make the route easier. Following the bolt line will provide some harder than they look moves. The moves up and past the 3rd bolt are the crux.

Location

On the arete/face 25 feet to the right of the main Oyster Bar routes.

Protection

3 bolts, few 1" - 3" cams for the anchor. Walk off to climbers right down an easy ramp/slab.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Russ and I wonder up to the Oyster Bar area. First time for me and Russ's first time in 20 years. As we sit at the base of the Oyster Bar route we were sheltered by the wind. Unlike the devil storm that was blowing just 8 feet away around the corner.

The Oyster Bar and it's neighboring route were looking steep and crimpy so I opted for the unknown 3 bolt wonder on the wall to the right as a warm up. How bad could it be....3 bolts seemed easy enough, right?

I clip the first bolt no problem, but gaining the mandatory edge for your hand to gain access beyond the first bolt seems difficult. So much so, I stretch back down to my stance and start complaining. The next time I reach for the hold, it doesn't seem as far so I pass the first bolt and second with little consequence. Clipping the 3rd bolt is also no problem. Then the route moves slightly right into a shallow dihedral which is easily seen from the ground. This move is very insecure. It's extremely difficult to shift your weight into this area from the wall on the left. I hung multiple times with no desire to make the move. No penalty if I fell, I'm just puss. Lots of complaining and eventually top out.

Good enough to do while in the area but don't be fooled, you're likely to be more challenged than you think while looking at it from the base.

Bring some medium size cams to set an anchor. Mar 14, 2007