Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Jim Angione & Geoff Archer, November 1991
Page Views: 112 total · 1/month
Shared By: Josh Beck on Apr 4, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Just left of the Oyster Bar proper is this 5 bolt route. The first bolt can be clipped by leaning off a boulder on the right instead of climbing up to it. Two bolts of steep climbing lead to the top of a large flake/horn type feature. From here easy moves lead to the fourth bolt, the third bolt seems a ways right and difficult to get to / bother clipping. Fun moves with more holds than are visible from the ground lead to the top. 2 bolt anchor, rappell the Oyster Bar routes to descend or downclimb way right, much better to rappel.

Protection

Possible .75 camalot placement behind very hollow flake, otherwise bolts and a bolted anchor.

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a/b
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a/b
If I recall, this thing used to start in the crack to the right of the bolted start.... Bolted start is much nicer, with some loose rock and pretty long and steep pulls for a 10a. Anchor at top is two bolts with no chains. You can TR off this with a couple of long slings and then walk off to climbers right above Buckets of Blort. Mar 14, 2007
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
FA; Todd Gordon, Jim Angione, Geoff Archer 11-91 Aug 10, 2010