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Routes in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Echoes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Flapjack Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovin' at the Beach T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Haagenschlong 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Jamison Engineering T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ R
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+
Short Stack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soup Kitchen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whale, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Aid, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mark Owen, John Coulter, Ben Folsom
Page Views: 752 total, 4/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The route climbs a wall a few hundreds yards north from Life During Wartime. About a mile up the Buckhorn Wash road from the pictograph panel. It is just behind a closed off campsite with boulders on the east side of the road.Pitch 1- Face climb to a ledge. Climb the nice right facing thin corner above over the roof and up a thin crack to a belay with bolts. 5.6 A1Pitch 2- Continue up the crack past a loose block to a fixed nut and tension right to a belay ledge with bolts. A1Pitch 3- Dirty and Loose mixed free and aid leads up cracks and corners to the top. Belay from whatever you can find. 5.9 A2

Descent- Walk right along the top of the wall past a dryfall and across the next buttress to a small slot canyon. Descend it to a dryfall and skirt it to the left then down talus to the car.

Protection

A few thin pins, 3 sets tcu's, 2 sets cams to #4 camalot. 1 set stoppers.

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