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Routes in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Chopped Sand T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crossroads / Disconnect / Come Again T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deprivation 29 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Echoes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Flapjack Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovin' at the Beach T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Haagenschlong 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Jamison Engineering T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ R
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+
Short Stack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soup Kitchen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whale, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Aid, 430 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ben Folsom & Mark Owen Oct. 2002
Page Views: 1,740 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 31, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

We climbed the first pitch of this route the weekend The US started bombing Kabul. We finished it a year later. The name is from a talking heads song and seemed appropriate. The route is on a buttress about a half mile north of the small wooden outhouse along the Buckhorn Wash road. The buttress is in back from the road and has a huge pillar with an unknown route to the left of the pillar. Our route starts left of that on a very overhanging wall with a steep corner system starting about 130' off the ground. Pitch 1 "this ain't no party" starts at A2 nailing past two bolts into A3 beaks past another bolt, then two bolts move right avoiding the loose flake above. Continue on hooks up and right to a three bolt hanging belay. Pitch 2 "this ain't no disco" climbs the main overhanging dihedral system on beaks to a bolt where I removed a TV sized block. Then continues on beaks to a break in the corner system. (The outside edge of the dihedral is very sharp. Possibly rope cutting in the event of a fall). Move left of a rivet and bolt to rejoin the corner system. Easier but still very steep nailing leads to a short rivet ladder and continues up cracks past another rivet to an A2 crack to reach a two bolt belay on a small ledge. There are many large loose flakes above the belay (don't touch them). Pitch two is almost 70 meters long. The final pitch climbs cracks on the exposed arete to the left of all the loose stuff A2. A 5.8 mantle reaches the summit. We belayed from a crack in a short cliffband about 15 feet from the rim. To descend walk across the top of the pillar buttress, then walk down slabs into a small slot canyon. Go down the slot until it opens up and becomes a large dryfall. Skirt the dryfall to the left and continue down loose talus back to your car.

Protection

15 beaks, 2 big peckers, 8 blades, 3 LA's, 3 1/2" angles, 4 5/8" angles, 1 1/4" sawed off angle. Stoppers, small to medium cams, 1 #4 camalot, a selection of hooks. 70 meter ropes.

Photos

greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
Sounds rowdy! nice work.
The "unknown route left of the pillar" is a 2 pitch aid route "Disconnect". Put up in the late 90's by Bill Ohran.
I just established a free route that starts at the base of the pillar and links into Bill's aid route, then continues to the summit. "Crossroads" 11+ Jun 3, 2017

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