Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ben Folsom & Lance Bateman Nov. 1st 2008
Page Views: 110 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Nov 13, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1 - Start up a short sandy face to reach a thin seam which leads up into better cracks. Near the top of the pitch a sandy, chossy, offwidth bulge presents the crux. 5.11 PG13. (The gear is all there, it is quite chossy rock though, thus the PG-13 safety rating). Belay on a sloping ledge and two bolt anchor. Approx. 100'

Pitch 2 - Climb left to reach better cracks and better rock. Handcracks lead to a jagged crack going left. More handcracks lead up a corner to a large ledge and belay from natural gear. 5.10
Approx. 100' (after the rock on the first pitch, this pitch is a huge relief).

To descend, walk left across the ledge to where the ground meets the ledge. You will walk past an unknown route up a dihedral, and the base of "Life During Wartime"

Location

This route is located on the same wall as "Life During Wartime". There is a huge pillar formation forming the nose of the buttress (La Escoba de Dios). The route is located almost directly below this pillar, just a little bit to climbers left. To approach, follow same directions for "Life During Wartime". Walk up the wash and up talus to the base. There is a cairned trail.

Protection

2 sets of cams from very small to #4 camalot sized.
A set of stoppers... Don't forget the stoppers!

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