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Routes in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Echoes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Flapjack Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovin' at the Beach T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Haagenschlong 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Jamison Engineering T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ R
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+
Short Stack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soup Kitchen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whale, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ben Folsom & Lance Bateman Nov. 1st 2008
Page Views: 88 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Nov 13, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Pitch 1 - Start up a short sandy face to reach a thin seam which leads up into better cracks. Near the top of the pitch a sandy, chossy, offwidth bulge presents the crux. 5.11 PG13. (The gear is all there, it is quite chossy rock though, thus the PG-13 safety rating). Belay on a sloping ledge and two bolt anchor. Approx. 100'

Pitch 2 - Climb left to reach better cracks and better rock. Handcracks lead to a jagged crack going left. More handcracks lead up a corner to a large ledge and belay from natural gear. 5.10
Approx. 100' (after the rock on the first pitch, this pitch is a huge relief).

To descend, walk left across the ledge to where the ground meets the ledge. You will walk past an unknown route up a dihedral, and the base of "Life During Wartime"

Location

This route is located on the same wall as "Life During Wartime". There is a huge pillar formation forming the nose of the buttress (La Escoba de Dios). The route is located almost directly below this pillar, just a little bit to climbers left. To approach, follow same directions for "Life During Wartime". Walk up the wash and up talus to the base. There is a cairned trail.

Protection

2 sets of cams from very small to #4 camalot sized.
A set of stoppers... Don't forget the stoppers!

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