5.9 A2,
Aid, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 1 from 1
vote
FA: Mark Owen, John Coulter, Ben Folsom
Utah
> S Central Utah
> San Rafael Swell
> San Rafael Swel…
> Buckhorn Wash
> Upper Buckhorn
> Crossroads/Broomstick…
Description
The route climbs a wall a few hundreds yards north from Life During Wartime. About a mile up the Buckhorn Wash road from the pictograph panel. It is just behind a closed off campsite with boulders on the east side of the road.Pitch 1- Face climb to a ledge. Climb the nice right facing thin corner above over the roof and up a thin crack to a belay with bolts. 5.6 A1Pitch 2- Continue up the crack past a loose block to a fixed nut and tension right to a belay ledge with bolts. A1Pitch 3- Dirty and Loose mixed free and aid leads up cracks and corners to the top. Belay from whatever you can find. 5.9 A2
Descent- Walk right along the top of the wall past a dryfall and across the next buttress to a small slot canyon. Descend it to a dryfall and skirt it to the left then down talus to the car.
Protection
A few thin pins, 3 sets tcu's, 2 sets cams to #4 camalot. 1 set stoppers.