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Routes in South Canyon Wall

Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Getting The Bob S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Showers S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hobo Testes S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Men Without Egos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spermatose S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Brent Kertzman and Lane Smith, Nov 1990
Page Views: 136 total, 1/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Apr 16, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

To access this route drive south on Falling Rock Rd. past the parking for the North Wall. Continue into canyon and up the otherside. At the top of the hill a blocked road will appear on the left. Park here then hike old road to east. Upon reaching the top of the South Wall continue walking east-northeast along a trail. Aim for the northeast rim of the canyon to the north. Upon reaching the northeast corner of the rim locate a coulair that is north facing and descend. After exiting the coulair, move right (eastward) along the base of the cliff. The wall this route is on will appear around the corner from the coulair. There are three routes on this buttress. Men Without Egos is the center route. Another bolt was added to the route this spring by Brent K. It is wise to stick-clip the first bolt.

Protection

Six Bolts

Photos

From an earlier Brad Boner post "and the route left of that has some wacky Spanish name, i think, and a rating of around 11b..." Actually the wacky named route left "Ne Soyez Pas Un Poule Mouilee" is loosely translated in Frenach as "Don't Be A Chicken". Dec 23, 2005
Brad Boner  
 
Men w/o Egos and Better a Has-been than a Wannabe are both on a north-facing cliff, across the canyon of the more popular area of Falling Rock (sounds like you were in the right area)... they are very close to the end of the peninsula... Men w/o Egos can be identified by spotting the tree that grows at the cliff edge on north side of the outcropping, and the hangers are directly below the tree... once at the base of the route and facing the cliff, Better a Has-been than a Wannabe is to the left, and the route left of that has some wacky Spanish name, i think, and a rating of around 11b... Feb 22, 2004
Eric Krantz
Black Hills
Eric Krantz   Black Hills
I guess I can't follow directions. I went to the end of the blocked old road where kids used to party and went left (east). I walked past the gully (that takes you to the bottom) and walked another 50 meters(?) east along the top. I came to several bolts on top of this arete-like spire-like thing that's almost not attached to the main wall, cold shuts on the north, hangers on the south, and hangers on top above the cold-shuts. Can anyone tell me where I was? Where is Men w/o Egos from these hangers? Also there are many other hangers nearby - anyone know what these are? Feb 21, 2004
Brad Boner  
 
In my opinion, this is by far the best route on the South Canyon Wall. A must-do at Falling Rock. May 20, 2003