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Routes in South Canyon Wall

Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Getting The Bob S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Showers S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hobo Testes S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Men Without Egos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spermatose S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

The south wall of Falling Rock Canyon sees much less traffic, and the climbs are harder to find. The aspect of the cliff is north facing, so it is a good wall to climb on in the afternoon with shade offered. The climbing is mainly on bolted vertical limestone faces with small pockets. There are only a handful of routes to be done here.

Getting There

Follow the directions to Falling Rock under the area description. Then park at the pulloff .7 miles after turning off highway 44. Follow an old dirt road east from the parking lot. Go straight at the first intersection, then continue up a small hill to the cliff crest. Head left on an obscure road following the cliff top. Eventually, you'll notice that you are running parallel to the North Canyon Wall, and descending slightly.

At this point, a faint trail heads right to a rock protrusion with a couple routes (Spermatose - 5.9, and up), and another trail continues straight to another protrusion with a few routes (Better a Has Been - 5.8 and up).

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Canyon Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spermatose
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Better a Hasbeen Than a Wan… 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Spermatose 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
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Photos

there was a rattle snake spotted on the trail above men without egos on Sunday (10-8-06) so watch your step. Oct 10, 2006

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