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GPS: 44.05307, -103.3627
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,849 total · 36/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 21, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

Description Suggest change

The south wall of Falling Rock Canyon sees much less traffic, and the climbs are harder to find. The aspect of the cliff is north facing, so it is a good wall to climb on in the afternoon with shade offered. The climbing is mainly on bolted vertical limestone faces with small pockets. There are only a handful of routes to be done here.

Getting There Suggest change

Follow the directions to Falling Rock under the area description. Then park at the pulloff .7 miles after turning off highway 44. Follow an old dirt road east from the parking lot. Go straight at the first intersection, then continue up a small hill to the cliff crest. Head left on an obscure road following the cliff top. Eventually, you'll notice that you are running parallel to the North Canyon Wall, and descending slightly.

At this point, a faint trail heads right to a rock protrusion with a couple routes (Spermatose - 5.9, and up), and another trail continues straight to another protrusion with a few routes (Better a Has Been - 5.8 and up).

11 Total Climbs

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Location: South Canyon Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Canyon Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Spermatose
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Men Without Egos
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Hobo Testes
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Better a Hasbeen Than a Wan…
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Spermatose
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Men Without Egos
 17
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Hobo Testes
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in South Canyon Wall »

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