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Routes in South Canyon Wall

Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Getting The Bob S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Showers S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hobo Testes S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Men Without Egos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spermatose S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Travis Rypkema
Page Views: 63 total, 1/month
Shared By: Travis Rypkema on Aug 14, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Don't blame me, I didn't name it. Good Stone. Up the blond streak right of "No Deck-A-Dunce"
Fun lower climbing leads to not much for hands in the crux. The crux comes at the 2nd-3rd bolt. Heel hook with your right and slowly work the arĂȘte feature up through the bulge. After the last bolt there is a minor run out to the top and the anchor is hidden below the very top. CHECK THE QUICKDRAW ANCHOR. REPAIR IF NEEDED PLEASE.

Protection

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Mike Madsen
Rapid City
  5.10c
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
  5.10c
Crux comes at the 3rd bolt. I used a right heel hook on the small protruding flake before the bulge. Reachy Holds gets you through the bulge and then climber "thinker" easier terrain to the top. The anchor should probably be rappelled. Its in a funky spot for a TR or lowering IMHO. Good route! May 31, 2015