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Routes in South Canyon Wall

Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Getting The Bob S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Showers S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hobo Testes S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Men Without Egos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spermatose S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brent Kertzman & Lane Smith, Nov. '90
Page Views: 1,276 total · 7/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jun 25, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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This is the best 5.8 at Falling Rock. Directly across the canyon from Garden Party is a black limestone block semi-detached from the main cliff. This route climbs the inner corner of the block facing back towards the parking lot. It is the leftmost of three routes on this wall. It is easily identified by the horizontal gash at 1/3 height.

This route is fairly reachy moving up to and past the horizontal, but the holds are all there. Sustained classic moderate limestone face climbing.


Draws. Easy to toprope from bolts.