The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)... <br> large file, zoom in for detail...

All Locations > New Hampshire > Cannon Cliff > Whitney-Gilman… > Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)...<br>
large file, zoom in for detail...

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The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)...<br>
large file, zoom in for detail...

Dave Walters above the 'Pipe' pitch on a winter ascent of the 'WG' in 1980

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4.8 from 12 votes

Lee Hansche

Jul 30, 2010

“The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)...
large file, zoom in for detail...”

2 Comments

Nearby Photos

Another beta of the route...

Just a perfect September afternoon in New England!

Dave Walters just below the 'Pipe' on a winter ascent of the 'WG' in 1980.

Exposure anyone... looking about 400 feet down from the pipe pitch crux...

The Whitney Gilman Ridge, Cannon, NH.

The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)...<br>
large file, zoom in for detail...

The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)...<br>
large file, zoom in for detail...

Dave Walters above the 'Pipe' pitch on a winter ascent of the 'WG' in 1980

Shot of the arete

Matt Ritter Leading up the 3rd pitch<br>

Nice exposure on this one

Middle Section W-G Ridge

Leading the "Pipe Pitch" in the "good old days" of vibram boots and pitons-and-hammer protection. Circa 1968, photo by the late Ed Nester

Johanna

Matt Ritter Belaying on Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Bottom Section - W-G Ridge

Party high up on WG, viewed from The British Were Coming. 10/10/2021

3 pitch break-up. Photo credit to Lee.
<br>
If I were to do this route again, I would do it in 3 pitches with a 70m.
<br>
Take care to extend pieces.

Top Section W-G Ridge

The Correct W-G "UP" trail

The 5.8 Alternate pitch. Leader is just above the "pipe" pitch, while the 2nd is climbing, she is just above the 2" jamcrack.

Upper Middle section W-G Ridge

Coming up on P2. I'm just a tiny speck on a big mountain!

The approach to the WG. Not too hard to spot the line, eh?

Full view of the Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

The pipe

Whitney Gilman route

High-stepping into P2.

At the base of Whitney Gilman Ridge <br>

Clouds moving in on Whitney Gilman

Success ! ALL ALONE on the Last Day of Summer 2025

3D finishing up a midnight run of WG in 2020. It was a unique experience for both of us as it was 3D's first time up the route and we did most of it in the darkness. Made it to work on time that morning too.

Obvious WG line on a blustery June afternoon.

ye old pipe

The climb has so many nice places to pull shoes and relax.

The approach to the Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

GT Luke leading the 5.8 crack variation.

The Whitney Gilman Ridge as seen from Moby Grape.

A perspective looking down into the black dyke<br>

Climbers On the 5.8 variation

Blasting off on pitch 3

Jon Sykes emerging from the crux pipe pitch on a springtime romp up the W-G. Photo by Jamie Cunningham. Buy the Guidebook: https://www.eaglecliffpub.com/

Looking up at the talus field approach to Whitney Gilman. Photo by JH.

Hannah above the 5.8 crack variation. I hand traversed left just before the crux of the pipe pitch and found (as always) a phenomenal belay ledge.

The Pipe Pitch

The W-G DOWN trail at the intersection with the bike path

W-G

Myself on top (5-8) variation 2nd pitch. Craig Young photographer, 2002

Top of pitch 3

catching a nice stem while enjoying the sweet splitter crack on the WG

Matt Bacalakis climbing up Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

beautiful day on cannon!

Photo looking down on the last pitch (5.8 variant) of the Whitney Gilman ridge in November.

here im up high on the 5.8 variation... just below me is a bunch of steep loose flakes that you just need to weave your way through...

Last pitch: couple of 5.7 moves in the inside corner put you on a razor-sharp fin arete followed by an airy traverse to the left. From there choose your line left (easier) or right (harder).

Winter Ascent of Whitney G

Exposure on the WG

The pitch 2 (5.7 variation).

NOT the W-G trail...this goes "nowhere". The Moby Grape trail leaves from one of those paved picnic areas along the side.

Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/

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Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

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