Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/

All Locations > New Hampshire > Cannon Cliff > 1. Whitney-Gilm… > Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/

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NOT the W-G trail...this goes "nowhere". The Moby Grape trail leaves from one of those paved picnic areas along the side.

Camera phone time

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Northeast Alpine Start

Nov 5, 2015

“Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/”

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Nearby Photos

Exposure anyone... looking about 400 feet down from the pipe pitch crux...

Just a perfect September afternoon in New England!

The Whitney Gilman Ridge, Cannon, NH.

Another beta of the route...

Dave Walters just below the 'Pipe' on a winter ascent of the 'WG' in 1980.

The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)...<br>
large file, zoom in for detail...

Johanna

Matt Ritter Leading up the 3rd pitch<br>

Leading the "Pipe Pitch" in the "good old days" of vibram boots and pitons-and-hammer protection. Circa 1968, photo by the late Ed Nester

Shot of the arete

Matt Ritter Belaying on Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Dave Walters above the 'Pipe' pitch on a winter ascent of the 'WG' in 1980

The Correct W-G "UP" trail

Bottom Section - W-G Ridge

Top Section W-G Ridge

Full view of the Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Looking down on the pipe pitch

Middle Section W-G Ridge

Upper-Middle section W-G Ridge

Upper Middle section W-G Ridge

High-stepping into P2.

The approach to the WG. Not too hard to spot the line, eh?

Mariann having fun on the direct finish of the Whitney Gilman Ridge

GT Luke leading the 5.8 crack variation.

coming up the 3rd pitch. exposed!

The Pipe Pitch

W-G

At the base of Whitney Gilman Ridge <br>

The approach to the Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

The 5.8 Alternate pitch. Leader is just above the "pipe" pitch, while the 2nd is climbing, she is just above the 2" jamcrack.

Clouds moving in on Whitney Gilman

The Whitney Gilman Ridge as seen from Moby Grape.

Climbers On the 5.8 variation

The W-G DOWN trail at the intersection with the bike path

Whitney Gilman route

Hannah above the 5.8 crack variation. I hand traversed left just before the crux of the pipe pitch and found (as always) a phenomenal belay ledge.

Looking up at the talus field approach to Whitney Gilman. Photo by JH.

Tim about to top off

Myself on top (5-8) variation 2nd pitch. Craig Young photographer, 2002

Top of pitch 3

catching a nice stem while enjoying the sweet splitter crack on the WG

here im up high on the 5.8 variation... just below me is a bunch of steep loose flakes that you just need to weave your way through...

Coming up on P2. I'm just a tiny speck on a big mountain!

Matt Bacalakis climbing up Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Photo looking down on the last pitch (5.8 variant) of the Whitney Gilman ridge in November.

beautiful day on cannon!

Last pitch: couple of 5.7 moves in the inside corner put you on a razor-sharp fin arete followed by an airy traverse to the left. From there choose your line left (easier) or right (harder).

Andrew Kaplan topping out in 41st anniversary reclimb.

Jon Sykes emerging from the crux pipe pitch on a springtime romp up the W-G. Photo by Jamie Cunningham. Buy the Guidebook: https://www.eaglecliffpub.com/

Remnants of an old cam can be seen in the middle of the picture. Taken at the beginning of pitch 2.

Just above the Crux Pipe Pitch

Climbers on the 5.8 "Higher Exposure" Variation

I had the honor of giving beta and belaying Tom while he climbed the Pipe Pitch! He's only 14 yrs old but he climbed it like a boss!

NOT the W-G trail...this goes "nowhere". The Moby Grape trail leaves from one of those paved picnic areas along the side.

Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/

Camera phone time

A perspective looking down into the black dyke<br>

Eric on WG in winter, Fafnir in the background.

...about 2 min. up the correct W-G Trail

Kayte topping out on Whitney Gilman. Interstate 93 can be seen far below.