Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/

All Locations > New Hampshire > Cannon Cliff > 1. Whitney-Gilm… > Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/

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Just above the Crux Pipe Pitch

Coming up on P2. I'm just a tiny speck on a big mountain!

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Northeast Alpine Start

Nov 5, 2015

“Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/”

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Nearby Photos

Exposure anyone... looking about 400 feet down from the pipe pitch crux...

Just a perfect September afternoon in New England!

The Whitney Gilman Ridge, Cannon, NH.

Another beta of the route...

The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)...<br>
large file, zoom in for detail...

Dave Walters just below the 'Pipe' on a winter ascent of the 'WG' in 1980.

Matt Ritter Belaying on Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Johanna

Leading the "Pipe Pitch" in the "good old days" of vibram boots and pitons-and-hammer protection. Circa 1968, photo by the late Ed Nester

Top Section W-G Ridge

The Correct W-G "UP" trail

Dave Walters above the 'Pipe' pitch on a winter ascent of the 'WG' in 1980

Matt Ritter Leading up the 3rd pitch<br>

At the base of Whitney Gilman Ridge <br>

Full view of the Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

coming up the 3rd pitch. exposed!

Upper-Middle section W-G Ridge

Looking down on the pipe pitch

W-G

Shot of the arete

Bottom Section - W-G Ridge

Middle Section W-G Ridge

Matt Bacalakis climbing up Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

The approach to the Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Upper Middle section W-G Ridge

Mariann having fun on the direct finish of the Whitney Gilman Ridge

Climbers On the 5.8 variation

beautiful day on cannon!

The Pipe Pitch

The 5.8 Alternate pitch. Leader is just above the "pipe" pitch, while the 2nd is climbing, she is just above the 2" jamcrack.

Clouds moving in on Whitney Gilman

The W-G DOWN trail at the intersection with the bike path

Hannah above the 5.8 crack variation. I hand traversed left just before the crux of the pipe pitch and found (as always) a phenomenal belay ledge.

A perspective looking down into the black dyke<br>

Tim about to top off

Whitney Gilman route

catching a nice stem while enjoying the sweet splitter crack on the WG

The Whitney Gilman Ridge as seen from Moby Grape.

Top of pitch 3

Photo looking down on the last pitch (5.8 variant) of the Whitney Gilman ridge in November.

Last pitch: couple of 5.7 moves in the inside corner put you on a razor-sharp fin arete followed by an airy traverse to the left. From there choose your line left (easier) or right (harder).

Myself on top (5-8) variation 2nd pitch. Craig Young photographer, 2002

Climbers on the 5.8 "Higher Exposure" Variation

Andrew Kaplan topping out in 41st anniversary reclimb.

Looking up at the talus field approach to Whitney Gilman. Photo by JH.

NOT the W-G trail...this goes "nowhere". The Moby Grape trail leaves from one of those paved picnic areas along the side.

I had the honor of giving beta and belaying Tom while he climbed the Pipe Pitch! He's only 14 yrs old but he climbed it like a boss!

Just above the Crux Pipe Pitch

Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/

Coming up on P2. I'm just a tiny speck on a big mountain!

The approach to the WG. Not too hard to spot the line, eh?

Camera phone time

Eric on WG in winter, Fafnir in the background.

Overview of the climb. If you view the full size of the image you can find me building an anchor at the top of the "Pipe" pitch and my partner is on the ledge at the top of the p2. - September 2013

Kayte topping out on Whitney Gilman. Interstate 93 can be seen far below.

...about 2 min. up the correct W-G Trail

looking down at mikey korek on the pipe pitch...its a long way down...

here im up high on the 5.8 variation... just below me is a bunch of steep loose flakes that you just need to weave your way through...

finishing up the 5.9 variation finish... more solid rock and more exposed climbing...

the 5.9 finish to the Whitney-Gilman...<br>
very fun...