Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/

All Locations > New Hampshire > Cannon Cliff > 1. Whitney-Gilm… > Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/

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Andrew Kaplan topping out in 41st anniversary reclimb.

Jon Sykes emerging from the crux pipe pitch on a springtime romp up the W-G. Photo by Jamie Cunningham. Buy the Guidebook: https://www.eaglecliffpub.com/

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Northeast Alpine Start

Nov 5, 2015

“Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/”

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Nearby Photos

Exposure anyone... looking about 400 feet down from the pipe pitch crux...

Another beta of the route...

Just a perfect September afternoon in New England!

Dave Walters just below the 'Pipe' on a winter ascent of the 'WG' in 1980.

The Whitney Gilman Ridge, Cannon, NH.

The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)...<br>
large file, zoom in for detail...

The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)...<br>
large file, zoom in for detail...

Leading the "Pipe Pitch" in the "good old days" of vibram boots and pitons-and-hammer protection. Circa 1968, photo by the late Ed Nester

Johanna

Matt Ritter Belaying on Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Matt Ritter Leading up the 3rd pitch<br>

Shot of the arete

Dave Walters above the 'Pipe' pitch on a winter ascent of the 'WG' in 1980

The 5.8 Alternate pitch. Leader is just above the "pipe" pitch, while the 2nd is climbing, she is just above the 2" jamcrack.

Bottom Section - W-G Ridge

The approach to the WG. Not too hard to spot the line, eh?

Top Section W-G Ridge

Nice exposure on this one

The Correct W-G "UP" trail

Full view of the Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

High-stepping into P2.

Upper Middle section W-G Ridge

Looking down on the pipe pitch

Middle Section W-G Ridge

Mariann having fun on the direct finish of the Whitney Gilman Ridge

Whitney Gilman route

At the base of Whitney Gilman Ridge <br>

The approach to the Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

coming up the 3rd pitch. exposed!

GT Luke leading the 5.8 crack variation.

3 pitch break-up. Photo credit to Lee.
<br>
If I were to do this route again, I would do it in 3 pitches with a 70m.
<br>
Take care to extend pieces.

The Pipe Pitch

Clouds moving in on Whitney Gilman

The pipe

Coming up on P2. I'm just a tiny speck on a big mountain!

The Whitney Gilman Ridge as seen from Moby Grape.

Climbers On the 5.8 variation

Hannah above the 5.8 crack variation. I hand traversed left just before the crux of the pipe pitch and found (as always) a phenomenal belay ledge.

Looking up at the talus field approach to Whitney Gilman. Photo by JH.

W-G

The W-G DOWN trail at the intersection with the bike path

Blasting off on pitch 3

catching a nice stem while enjoying the sweet splitter crack on the WG

Myself on top (5-8) variation 2nd pitch. Craig Young photographer, 2002

Top of pitch 3

Photo looking down on the last pitch (5.8 variant) of the Whitney Gilman ridge in November.

Matt Bacalakis climbing up Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

beautiful day on cannon!

here im up high on the 5.8 variation... just below me is a bunch of steep loose flakes that you just need to weave your way through...

Last pitch: couple of 5.7 moves in the inside corner put you on a razor-sharp fin arete followed by an airy traverse to the left. From there choose your line left (easier) or right (harder).

NOT the W-G trail...this goes "nowhere". The Moby Grape trail leaves from one of those paved picnic areas along the side.

Andrew Kaplan topping out in 41st anniversary reclimb.

Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/

Jon Sykes emerging from the crux pipe pitch on a springtime romp up the W-G. Photo by Jamie Cunningham. Buy the Guidebook: https://www.eaglecliffpub.com/

Climbers on the 5.8 "Higher Exposure" Variation

Remnants of an old cam can be seen in the middle of the picture. Taken at the beginning of pitch 2.

Pitch 5 corner. With Cathedral Mtn Guides

Exposure on the WG

Just above the Crux Pipe Pitch

Eric on WG in winter, Fafnir in the background.