Exposure anyone... looking about 400 feet down from the pipe pitch crux...

All Locations > New Hampshire > Cannon Cliff > 1. Whitney-Gilm… > Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Exposure anyone... looking about 400 feet down from the pipe pitch crux...

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Just a perfect September afternoon in New England!

The Whitney Gilman Ridge, Cannon, NH.

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4.3 from 34 votes

Lee Hansche

Jun 20, 2007

“Exposure anyone... looking about 400 feet down from the pipe pitch crux...”

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Another beta of the route...

Just a perfect September afternoon in New England!

Exposure anyone... looking about 400 feet down from the pipe pitch crux...

The Whitney Gilman Ridge, Cannon, NH.

Dave Walters just below the 'Pipe' on a winter ascent of the 'WG' in 1980.

The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)...<br>
large file, zoom in for detail...

The normal (5.7) route is the green line... follow the red short cuts for a more direct and slightly harder route (5.8 and 5.9 variations)...<br>
large file, zoom in for detail...

Dave Walters above the 'Pipe' pitch on a winter ascent of the 'WG' in 1980

Leading the "Pipe Pitch" in the "good old days" of vibram boots and pitons-and-hammer protection. Circa 1968, photo by the late Ed Nester

Shot of the arete

Matt Ritter Leading up the 3rd pitch<br>

Johanna

Matt Ritter Belaying on Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Nice exposure on this one

The 5.8 Alternate pitch. Leader is just above the "pipe" pitch, while the 2nd is climbing, she is just above the 2" jamcrack.

The Correct W-G "UP" trail

The approach to the WG. Not too hard to spot the line, eh?

Full view of the Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Bottom Section - W-G Ridge

Top Section W-G Ridge

High-stepping into P2.

Upper Middle section W-G Ridge

Looking down on the pipe pitch

The pipe

Party high up on WG, viewed from The British Were Coming. 10/10/2021

Middle Section W-G Ridge

The climb has so many nice places to pull shoes and relax.

We read that someone jammed their knee inside this offwidth and needed a rescue. The crack is in fact nicely knee-width and it was very tempting to stick it in there but alas we prevailed using other means.

At the base of Whitney Gilman Ridge <br>

Whitney Gilman route

coming up the 3rd pitch. exposed!

3 pitch break-up. Photo credit to Lee.
<br>
If I were to do this route again, I would do it in 3 pitches with a 70m.
<br>
Take care to extend pieces.

GT Luke leading the 5.8 crack variation.

The approach to the Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

Obvious WG line on a blustery June afternoon.

Mariann having fun on the direct finish of the Whitney Gilman Ridge

The Pipe Pitch

Clouds moving in on Whitney Gilman

Coming up on P2. I'm just a tiny speck on a big mountain!

The Whitney Gilman Ridge as seen from Moby Grape.

Climbers On the 5.8 variation

W-G

Hannah above the 5.8 crack variation. I hand traversed left just before the crux of the pipe pitch and found (as always) a phenomenal belay ledge.

Blasting off on pitch 3

The W-G DOWN trail at the intersection with the bike path

Looking up at the talus field approach to Whitney Gilman. Photo by JH.

Myself on top (5-8) variation 2nd pitch. Craig Young photographer, 2002

Top of pitch 3

catching a nice stem while enjoying the sweet splitter crack on the WG

Matt Bacalakis climbing up Whitney Gilman Ridge<br>

beautiful day on cannon!

here im up high on the 5.8 variation... just below me is a bunch of steep loose flakes that you just need to weave your way through...

Photo looking down on the last pitch (5.8 variant) of the Whitney Gilman ridge in November.

Last pitch: couple of 5.7 moves in the inside corner put you on a razor-sharp fin arete followed by an airy traverse to the left. From there choose your line left (easier) or right (harder).

Just above the Crux Pipe Pitch

Andrew Kaplan topping out in 41st anniversary reclimb.

NOT the W-G trail...this goes "nowhere". The Moby Grape trail leaves from one of those paved picnic areas along the side.

Exposure on the WG

Start of first pitch direct variation. Detailed beta in trip report here: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/11/05/the-whitney-gilman-ridge-cannon-cliff-11415/

Jon Sykes emerging from the crux pipe pitch on a springtime romp up the W-G. Photo by Jamie Cunningham. Buy the Guidebook: https://www.eaglecliffpub.com/