slabs leading around to the main summit. You should head for the big gap in the wall seen in the photo. Guidebooks call it Icy ledges and you do encounter some snow and or ice but nothing too significant

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia-Shushwap > Bugaboos > Pigeon Spire > W Ridge (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

slabs leading around to the main summit. You should head for the big gap in the wall seen in the photo. Guidebooks call it Icy ledges and you do encounter some snow and or ice but nothing too significant

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Looks like some jam cracks coming up, eh? (ps- the tie-in is a bowline-on-a-coil around the waist, 1982. Rope is 100 ft of 9mm) Photo by Mary Jane Cross .

Low fifth class down climb from second summit to col with main summit.

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matt matera

Jul 27, 2016

“slabs leading around to the main summit. You should head for the big gap in the wall seen in the photo. Guidebooks call it Icy ledges and you do encounter some snow and or ice but nothing too significant”

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Reaching the Summit

Looks like some jam cracks coming up, eh? (ps- the tie-in is a bowline-on-a-coil around the waist, 1982. Rope is 100 ft of 9mm) Photo by Mary Jane Cross .

slabs leading around to the main summit. You should head for the big gap in the wall seen in the photo. Guidebooks call it Icy ledges and you do encounter some snow and or ice but nothing too significant

Low fifth class down climb from second summit to col with main summit.

bolted anchor on the main summit. Either a double rappel or Two single rappels with a 60 m rope should get you back to the slabs. The second is also bolted

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This shot typifies the climbing on the West Ridge, easy but with serious consequences if you blow it badly.

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Guided Party 1982-Style

MJ Cross "scrunches" along the crux (5.4 - 5.5?) moves just below the summit. [Well, crux except for the boulder move to the summit block.] Note the 9mm is now doubled.

West Ridge with boot from summit of Pigeon ...

West Ridge, Pigeon Spire<br>
contour interval : 100 feet<br>
<br>
Blue - Bugaboo-Snowpatch Approach<br>
Yellow - Rock climbing section to summit

View from the top of the col. Amazing.

Fred Batliner with Howser Towers behind - on a very chilly, but wonderful, day.

summit, rocking my tights

A telephoto shot of a team taking a break on the glacier below.

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