Low fifth class down climb from second summit to col with main summit.

All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > The Bugaboos > Pigeon Spire > West Ridge (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

Low fifth class down climb from second summit to col with main summit.

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Reaching the Summit

Kinda nice views along the ridge (Photo by Mary-Jane Cross, 1982)

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matt matera

Jul 27, 2016

“Low fifth class down climb from second summit to col with main summit. ”

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West Ridge of Pigeon Spire

Approaching the summite of Pigeon Spire.

Lisa Foster and Paul Kejla on the descent with Bugaboo Spire on the left.

The new facilities at the saddle...

West Ridge Ascent : Aug 2017

View of Pigeon Spire from the northeast. The West Ridge route follows the right skyline of the spire.

Stopping to admire the Howser Towers while descending the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire.

Great exposure on the west ridge of Pigeon Spire

Climber on the west ridge of Pigeon Spire

Looks like some jam cracks coming up, eh? (ps- the tie-in is a bowline-on-a-coil around the waste, 1982. Rope is 100 ft of 9mm)

On Pigeon's west ridge.

Reaching the Summit

Low fifth class down climb from second summit to col with main summit.

Kinda nice views along the ridge (Photo by Mary-Jane Cross, 1982)

This shot typifies the climbing on the West Ridge, easy but with serious consequences if you blow it badly.

GoPro fisheye view of the exposed traverse on the West Ridge

bolted anchor on the main summit. Either a double rappel or Two single rappels with a 60 m rope should get you back to the slabs. The second is also bolted

Guided Party 1982-Style

MJ Cross "scrunches" along the crux (5.4 - 5.5?) moves just below the summit. [Well, crux except for the boulder move to the summit block.] Note the 9mm is now doubled.

West Ridge with boot from summit of Pigeon ...

A telephoto shot of a team taking a break on the glacier below.

Taking in the view of the Howser Towers from the ramp

summit, rocking my tights

West Ridge, Pigeon Spire<br>
contour interval : 100 feet<br>
<br>
Blue - Bugaboo-Snowpatch Approach<br>
Yellow - Rock climbing section to summit

Fred Batliner with Howser Towers behind - on a very chilly, but wonderful, day.

slabs leading around to the main summit. You should head for the big gap in the wall seen in the photo. Guidebooks call it Icy ledges and you do encounter some snow and or ice but nothing too significant