This shot typifies the climbing on the West Ridge, easy but with serious consequences if you blow it badly.

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All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > The Bugaboos > Pigeon Spire > West Ridge (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

This shot typifies the climbing on the West Ridge, easy but with serious consequences if you blow it badly.

ID 105899322 ·

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Reaching the Summit

Kinda nice views along the ridge (Photo by Mary-Jane Cross, 1982)

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4.5 from 2 votes

Brad Brandewie

Dec 18, 2006

“This shot typifies the climbing on the West Ridge, easy but with serious consequences if you blow it badly.”

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Nearby Photos

West Ridge of Pigeon Spire

Approaching the summite of Pigeon Spire.

Lisa Foster and Paul Kejla on the descent with Bugaboo Spire on the left.

The new facilities at the saddle...

West Ridge Ascent : Aug 2017

View of Pigeon Spire from the northeast. The West Ridge route follows the right skyline of the spire.

Stopping to admire the Howser Towers while descending the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire.

Great exposure on the west ridge of Pigeon Spire

Looks like some jam cracks coming up, eh? (ps- the tie-in is a bowline-on-a-coil around the waste, 1982. Rope is 100 ft of 9mm)

Reaching the Summit

This shot typifies the climbing on the West Ridge, easy but with serious consequences if you blow it badly.

Kinda nice views along the ridge (Photo by Mary-Jane Cross, 1982)

GoPro fisheye view of the exposed traverse on the West Ridge

Guided Party 1982-Style

MJ Cross "scrunches" along the crux (5.4 - 5.5?) moves just below the summit. [Well, crux except for the boulder move to the summit block.] Note the 9mm is now doubled.

West Ridge with boot from summit of Pigeon ...

Climber on the west ridge of Pigeon Spire

On Pigeon's west ridge.

A telephoto shot of a team taking a break on the glacier below.

bolted anchor on the main summit. Either a double rappel or Two single rappels with a 60 m rope should get you back to the slabs. The second is also bolted

slabs leading around to the main summit. You should head for the big gap in the wall seen in the photo. Guidebooks call it Icy ledges and you do encounter some snow and or ice but nothing too significant

Low fifth class down climb from second summit to col with main summit.

Fred Batliner with Howser Towers behind - on a very chilly, but wonderful, day.

West Ridge, Pigeon Spire<br>
contour interval : 100 feet<br>
<br>
Blue - Bugaboo-Snowpatch Approach<br>
Yellow - Rock climbing section to summit