Running across the approach slab below the remnants of the pocket glacier

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley > Western Chilliw… > Mt Slesse > Northeast Buttress (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Running across the approach slab below the remnants of the pocket glacier

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Slesse, from crossover pass area.

On the Crossover Pass descent.

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4.2 from 5 votes

Hans Bauck

Jan 22, 2015

“Running across the approach slab below the remnants of the pocket glacier”

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Nearby Photos

Photo Overlay of Approach and Crossover Descent.

Flex romping up the upper buttress<br>
photo by Jeff kennedy

NE Buttress

Last tower on descent

Google Earth Overlay of Approach and Crossover Descent.

North ridge of slesse looking south from the crossover descent

Chaz on top

Cross over descent looking north. The crossover runs the ridge until dropping down left, then through the pass

Allen Sanderson following the 5.10+ pitch encountered on the direct start during an August 3-4, 2008 ascent. This appears to be a variation to the direct start described in McClane's guide.

Slesse, from crossover pass area.

Running across the approach slab below the remnants of the pocket glacier

On the Crossover Pass descent.

Grassy slope under Wooded Stump, one day after large landslide. Photo taken from NEB of Slesse.

The immaculate ridge in silhouette on the morning descent

The next day, morning at the forested knoll on the descent, looking into the Slesse Creek drainage. It rained all day.

Looking back down to the bivouac ledge.

View from large bivy

The parallel finger cracks on the upper 5.9 ("incredible" Beckey Topo) are gone. The entire block broke off! (Permission from Colin Haley for Honnold photo)

Climbing around onto the ridge from the end of the cutoff ramp

NE Buttress Route<br>
Approx. location of the first rappel.

Eric Scranton showing off his Bypass Glacier footwear - August 2002

Eric Scranton climbing thru the maze of the Bypass Glacier in August 2002. Bit of a puzzle but we eventually solved it without too much backtracking.

Charging into a simul block in the clouds.

Chaz and John at the summit.

Talk about deluxe accommodations at the bivy…

On the Bypass Glacier bedrock, with the wooded ridge between the Slesse and Bypass glaciers in the background.

Below the summit ridge

Evening south side of Slesse on the old traditional descent - August 2002. Didn't know much of anything about the Crossover option so played it safe and took the long way home.

On the Crossover Pass descent.

Waiting....

Steep snow on the Crossover Pass descent. A bit sketchy with approach shoes.

At the summit. The descent starts on the far side of the bowl/snowfield.

The Propeller Cairn

Eric Scranton starting the standard descent route on the south side of Slesse - August 2002

Leading up out of the bivvy ledge. We simul-climbed this for 3-4 pitches.<br>
Summit ridge above.

Eric Scranton midway down the std descent route - August 2002. Shuksan in the far distance.

Pocket glacier on Mt. Slesse, August 12, 2016. Some years the pocket glacier slides by mid-August, some years it hangs around until late-September. 2016 is looking like a late-September year....

Looking down on the Bypass glacier bedrock

At the bivvy ledge

Above the bypass ramp, with the cirque below. The memorial plaque is marked.

On the crest

Crux 5.10a pitch. We felt that this was more like a stout 5.9.

Eric Scranton near the top - August 2002. Notice how much more snow compared some recent shots.

On the Crossover Pass descent.

Washington State.<br>
Name that mountain....

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