On the crest

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All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley > Western Chilliw… > Mt. Slesse > Northeast Buttress (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

On the crest

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On the Crossover Pass descent.

Leading up out of the bivvy ledge. We simul-climbed this for 3-4 pitches.<br>
Summit ridge above.

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John Bradford

Feb 19, 2008

“On the crest”

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Nearby Photos

Flex romping up the upper buttress<br>
photo by Jeff kennedy

NE Buttress

Cross over descent looking north. The crossover runs the ridge until dropping down left, then through the pass

North ridge of slesse looking south from the crossover descent

Photo Overlay of Approach and Crossover Descent.

Running across the approach slab below the remnants of the pocket glacier

Allen Sanderson following the 5.10+ pitch encountered on the direct start during an August 3-4, 2008 ascent. This appears to be a variation to the direct start described in McClane's guide.

Last tower on descent

The next day, morning at the forested knoll on the descent, looking into the Slesse Creek drainage. It rained all day.

Looking back down to the bivouac ledge.

On the Crossover Pass descent.

Chaz on top

View from large bivy

Climbing around onto the ridge from the end of the cutoff ramp

Above the bypass ramp, with the cirque below. The memorial plaque is marked.

On the descent

On the Crossover Pass descent.

Steep snow on the Crossover Pass descent. A bit sketchy with approach shoes.

Below the summit ridge

On the Crossover Pass descent.

On the crest

Leading up out of the bivvy ledge. We simul-climbed this for 3-4 pitches.<br>
Summit ridge above.

Google Earth Overlay of Approach and Crossover Descent.

A col rappel

Waiting....

At the summit. The descent starts on the far side of the bowl/snowfield.

Chaz and John at the summit.

Washington State.<br>
Name that mountain....

On the Bypass Glacier bedrock, with the wooded ridge between the Slesse and Bypass glaciers in the background.

Eric Scranton near the top - August 2002. Notice how much more snow compared some recent shots.

Pocket glacier on Mt. Slesse, August 12, 2016. Some years the pocket glacier slides by mid-August, some years it hangs around until late-September. 2016 is looking like a late-September year....

Eric Scranton climbing thru the maze of the Bypass Glacier in August 2002. Bit of a puzzle but we eventually solved it without too much backtracking.

Eric Scranton midway down the std descent route - August 2002. Shuksan in the far distance.

At the bivvy ledge

Eric Scranton showing off his Bypass Glacier footwear - August 2002

The Propeller Cairn

Eric Scranton starting the standard descent route on the south side of Slesse - August 2002

Looking down on the Bypass glacier bedrock

Evening south side of Slesse on the old traditional descent - August 2002. Did know much of anything about the Crossover option so played it safe and took the long way home.

NE Buttress Route<br>
Approx. location of the first rappel.