Eric Scranton midway down the std descent route - August 2002. Shuksan in the far distance.

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All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley > Western Chilliw… > Mt Slesse > Northeast Buttress (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Eric Scranton midway down the std descent route - August 2002. Shuksan in the far distance.

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On the Crossover Pass descent.

At the bivvy ledge

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Peter Cole

Jul 6, 2018

“Eric Scranton midway down the std descent route - August 2002. Shuksan in the far distance.”

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Nearby Photos

Flex romping up the upper buttress<br>
photo by Jeff kennedy

NE Buttress

Photo Overlay of Approach and Crossover Descent.

Last tower on descent

North ridge of slesse looking south from the crossover descent

Cross over descent looking north. The crossover runs the ridge until dropping down left, then through the pass

Allen Sanderson following the 5.10+ pitch encountered on the direct start during an August 3-4, 2008 ascent. This appears to be a variation to the direct start described in McClane's guide.

Chaz on top

Running across the approach slab below the remnants of the pocket glacier

The next day, morning at the forested knoll on the descent, looking into the Slesse Creek drainage. It rained all day.

On the Crossover Pass descent.

Looking back down to the bivouac ledge.

View from large bivy

Climbing around onto the ridge from the end of the cutoff ramp

On the descent

A col rappel

Above the bypass ramp, with the cirque below. The memorial plaque is marked.

On the Crossover Pass descent.

Waiting....

Steep snow on the Crossover Pass descent. A bit sketchy with approach shoes.

Eric Scranton starting the standard descent route on the south side of Slesse - August 2002

Chaz and John at the summit.

On the Bypass Glacier bedrock, with the wooded ridge between the Slesse and Bypass glaciers in the background.

Eric Scranton showing off his Bypass Glacier footwear - August 2002

Pocket glacier on Mt. Slesse, August 12, 2016. Some years the pocket glacier slides by mid-August, some years it hangs around until late-September. 2016 is looking like a late-September year....

On the crest

At the summit. The descent starts on the far side of the bowl/snowfield.

Below the summit ridge

Leading up out of the bivvy ledge. We simul-climbed this for 3-4 pitches.<br>
Summit ridge above.

Looking down on the Bypass glacier bedrock

Washington State.<br>
Name that mountain....

Google Earth Overlay of Approach and Crossover Descent.

Evening south side of Slesse on the old traditional descent - August 2002. Did know much of anything about the Crossover option so played it safe and took the long way home.

Eric Scranton near the top - August 2002. Notice how much more snow compared some recent shots.

The Propeller Cairn

Eric Scranton climbing thru the maze of the Bypass Glacier in August 2002. Bit of a puzzle but we eventually solved it without too much backtracking.

On the Crossover Pass descent.

Eric Scranton midway down the std descent route - August 2002. Shuksan in the far distance.

At the bivvy ledge

Grassy slope under Wooded Stump, one day after large landslide. Photo taken from NEB of Slesse.

NE Buttress Route<br>
Approx. location of the first rappel.

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