Chaz and John at the summit.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley > Western Chilliw… > Mt Slesse > Northeast Buttress (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Chaz and John at the summit.

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On the Bypass Glacier bedrock, with the wooded ridge between the Slesse and Bypass glaciers in the background.

Evening south side of Slesse on the old traditional descent - August 2002. Did know much of anything about the Crossover option so played it safe and took the long way home.

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John Bradford

Feb 19, 2008

“Chaz and John at the summit.”

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Nearby Photos

Photo Overlay of Approach and Crossover Descent.

Flex romping up the upper buttress<br>
photo by Jeff kennedy

NE Buttress

Last tower on descent

Google Earth Overlay of Approach and Crossover Descent.

North ridge of slesse looking south from the crossover descent

Allen Sanderson following the 5.10+ pitch encountered on the direct start during an August 3-4, 2008 ascent. This appears to be a variation to the direct start described in McClane's guide.

Chaz on top

Cross over descent looking north. The crossover runs the ridge until dropping down left, then through the pass

Running across the approach slab below the remnants of the pocket glacier

The next day, morning at the forested knoll on the descent, looking into the Slesse Creek drainage. It rained all day.

Slesse, from crossover pass area.

The immaculate ridge in silhouette on the morning descent

On the Crossover Pass descent.

Looking back down to the bivouac ledge.

View from large bivy

Climbing around onto the ridge from the end of the cutoff ramp

NE Buttress Route<br>
Approx. location of the first rappel.

Looking down on the Bypass glacier bedrock

Eric Scranton near the top - August 2002. Notice how much more snow compared some recent shots.

On the Bypass Glacier bedrock, with the wooded ridge between the Slesse and Bypass glaciers in the background.

Chaz and John at the summit.

Evening south side of Slesse on the old traditional descent - August 2002. Did know much of anything about the Crossover option so played it safe and took the long way home.

Talk about deluxe accommodations at the bivy…

On the Crossover Pass descent.

Eric Scranton starting the standard descent route on the south side of Slesse - August 2002

Waiting....

Steep snow on the Crossover Pass descent. A bit sketchy with approach shoes.

The Propeller Cairn

Charging into a simul block in the clouds.

At the summit. The descent starts on the far side of the bowl/snowfield.

Eric Scranton showing off his Bypass Glacier footwear - August 2002

Below the summit ridge

Eric Scranton climbing thru the maze of the Bypass Glacier in August 2002. Bit of a puzzle but we eventually solved it without too much backtracking.

Leading up out of the bivvy ledge. We simul-climbed this for 3-4 pitches.<br>
Summit ridge above.

Eric Scranton midway down the std descent route - August 2002. Shuksan in the far distance.

At the bivvy ledge

Grassy slope under Wooded Stump, one day after large landslide. Photo taken from NEB of Slesse.

Pocket glacier on Mt. Slesse, August 12, 2016. Some years the pocket glacier slides by mid-August, some years it hangs around until late-September. 2016 is looking like a late-September year....

Above the bypass ramp, with the cirque below. The memorial plaque is marked.

On the crest

Crux 5.10a pitch. We felt that this was more like a stout 5.9.

Washington State.<br>
Name that mountain....

The parallel finger cracks on the upper 5.9 ("incredible" Beckey Topo) are gone. The entire block broke off! (Permission from Colin Haley for Honnold photo)

On the Crossover Pass descent.

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