sport climbing near boulder

is there a best place to climb single pitch sport low-mid 5.12s near Boulder, that is accessible with young children? we will be visiting in a few months and we want to climb but the only places I've climbed much (wall of the 90s and industrial wall) were kind of hard to get to, one you had to cross a river on a rope which i don't think we could bring the baby across and the other the hike was super arduous and involved going through an active train tunnel but I feel like there must be other good sport crags to go to in the area? also ideally shorter routes and slightly steep or even very steep, is ideal

In Clear Creek, Fiscal Cliff is literally on a paved path that would probably be ideal for kids, and Dog House has an easy approach & good base area. Both have steep routes & Fiscal Cliff is particularly short.

Also, Wall of the 90s doesn't require a tyrol river crossing or a long hike through a train tunnel, so you might be thinking of another crag.

Be careful at Fiscal- it’s susceptible to the freeze thaw cycle- more than a few big rocks come off there in the early season.

I’ve heard there’s a few good cliffs in Boulder canyon, although I haven’t been.

we had alot of luck with our son when he was little at Staunton- Dungeon/Tan Corridor. Solid rock, relatively chill approach that the kid can do but you can also carry them in the pack. Staunton is a bit of a haul from Boulder (probably an hour), but if you stay closer to Golden you’re still 20-30 from Boulder climbing and about 40-45 mins to Staunton. It’s also cheaper than Boulder. 

graveyard at CCC is quite accessible.  Nice paved walking path to get you to the base of the crag and from there the climbers trail is short and not that steep.   Plenty of 12s and lots of sun in the winter. 

Also Longmont reservoir (aka button rock) outside of Lyons is a stellar option as long as the water level is low; the approach is short and sweet

Kevin Swrote:

Also Longmont reservoir (aka button rock) outside of Lyons is a stellar option as long as the water level is low; the approach is short and sweet

Kinda disagree with this one.  The water is a hazard and the climbing tends to concentrate everyone at Redneck/Aquadarius.  I’ve been there with littles, but it’s stressful.

For Boulder Canyon, the white Haas/Weidner guidebook also describes how kid friendly each cliff is (the newer Topher Donahue might too? I haven't looked at it though).

With the big caveat that I don't have kids & some of these spots are conditions dependent... here are my 2 cents: 

* Oceanic Wall: 10 min-ish hike in (with rock stairs) to an idyllic spot with a flat base next to a creek. Amazing granite--but it's not steep. There's a slim chance you'll run into nudists. Gets afternoon sun (iirc in summer, it might get evening shade).

* Animal World: 10 min-ish steep hike in, some bases are flat, some bases are next to a cliff. Climbable year-round (except for windy or really cold days), has classics at all grades less than 5.13.

* Sport Park: In fall/winter/before-spring snowmelt, you can wade the creek... spring/summer you will need to tyrollean across the creek (so maybe a no-go). Cliff bases for kids range from great to terrible. A very high density of climbs. You're either going to love this spot or hate it. 

* Coney Island: Approaches ranging from 2 to 5 minutes; bases are probably ok for kids? Gets sun, a good winter spot.

* Bowling Alley: Short approach, high density of short & steeper (for BoCan) climbs, ok to bad bases (can be flat & near the road, or uneven & chossy). 

Good luck!

Marek Sotolawrote:

For Boulder Canyon, the white Haas/Weidner guidebook also describes how kid friendly each cliff is (the newer Topher Donahue might too? I haven't looked at it though).

With the big caveat that I don't have kids & some of these spots are conditions dependent... here are my 2 cents: 

* Oceanic Wall: 10 min-ish hike in (with rock stairs) to an idyllic spot with a flat base next to a creek. Amazing granite--but it's not steep. There's a slim chance you'll run into nudists. Gets afternoon sun (iirc in summer, it might get evening shade).

* Animal World: 10 min-ish steep hike in, some bases are flat, some bases are next to a cliff. Climbable year-round (except for windy or really cold days), has classics at all grades less than 5.13.

* Sport Park: In fall/winter/before-spring snowmelt, you can wade the creek... spring/summer you will need to tyrollean across the creek (so maybe a no-go). Cliff bases for kids range from great to terrible. A very high density of climbs. You're either going to love this spot or hate it. 

* Coney Island: Approaches ranging from 2 to 5 minutes; bases are probably ok for kids? Gets sun, a good winter spot.

* Bowling Alley: Short approach, high density of short & steeper (for BoCan) climbs, ok to bad bases (can be flat & near the road, or uneven & chossy). 

Good luck!

Marek knows his stuff. Of this list, I'd say Oceanic is your best bet by far. Nice large and flat base, bit of a hike but on stable terrain and such a good hang once you get there. Good routes too.