New and experienced climbers over 50 #37

Sixish is an excellent one, really any one with one star minimum is excellent there. Do them all!

We watched the movie Love and Mercy last night about the life of Brian Wilson up to and through the making of pet sounds. I had followed his story somewhat particularly when he had become so ill and was given over to the guardianship of an abusive whack job.

It sure provided some wonderful background on the music within pet sounds. I’ll be listening to that this morning on my morning hike.

What I didn’t know was that Brian had married that beautiful woman who had befriended him during the worst of it, they went on to adopt a five children together, and she died in 2024. He struggled with mental illness and dementia until the end of his life but he had love  he had the support and care from his wife and kids. 

It’s just another story about “the least of these“ who I believe we are all fighting for. The forgotten, the lonely, the poor.  After watching the debacle of Senator Padilla it’s obvious to say “What if I were poor, or a worker, sick or homeless?”

Buck Rogerswrote:

Too cool! Then you must have been at Camp Vance when the Tajma-sh!tter was built!  

I was one of the first guys to operate on Dwyer after he was hit during the left seat/right seat ride.

Small world.

lmao!!  the B-hut I was in was directly across from it!  I went back to Bagrham in 2016 to help install a radio system at the AVN BDE,  got to walk by the old Camp Vance.  only thing left in it was the Tajmahal-shitter and that giant quonset hut gym the SeaBees built.  when we were there you could run completely around the base in an hour.  we were staying on the back side of the base, I ran for like 45 mins and had no clue how far around I had gone.  it had grown in orders of magnitude. 

Carl Schneiderwrote:

Well. That’s rather a generalisation. Certainly Melbourne had long and strict lockdowns for extended periods, as did many countries, but other states were less restricted. I can’t recall exactly but here in SA our lockdowns were for only a week or so. Also, it may be slightly unfair to say you’ve lost all respect for an entire country based on the actions of State Premiers at one time during a global pandemic. Mr Andrew’s is no longer in parliament and is generally disliked.
That would be like me saying I’ve lost all respect for America as a country based on what your current leader is doing.
This thread here is a classic example that good people can exist in a country despite there being many who are not so good. 

@ Jim U: Thank you for calling me 'Sir'. But really, that's too formal, call me Carl! 

BTW Jim I looked up the alleged Covid camps as I couldn't recall them although we did place people visiting Australia into hotels. Here in Adelaide Tom's Court hotel was used. Just up the road from where I worked. Look it up. Hardly a camp, quite nice really. No-one wants to be restricted but to enable people to quarantine after coming off a flight where someone may have been contaminated it was arguably not a massive abuse of human rights. At the time I was deployed from my own dept to work for the Communicable Disease Control Branch to carry out Covid tracking etc

No such thing as the Covid camps as far as I can recall, and I see it's been debunked (see below) but don't let my knowledge as an Australian citizen get in the way of a good story.

When I was in the army I was twice nominated for instructor of the year when a recruit instructor. I was student of merit on the Subject One for Sergeant course at Kapooka, our recruit training battalion. I received the bombardier of the year award soon after. I was student of merit on the Sub 2 for Corporal course. Came second on my initial employment training course. Sat and passed the Sub 1 for Warrant Officer exception test, student of merit on the Sub 3 for Sergeant course. First bombardier in history in Aust to be in charge of a Surface to Air Missile firing at sea.

Not bad for a clown.  

https://www.aap.com.au/factcheck/unvaccinated-camps-are-a-covid-conspiracy/

But I digress. This is a Climbing Forum, not a Responding to Being Called a Clown Forum

ok fine clown comment rescinded.... not so much the penal colony part though LMAO.  pleasure to meet to chief.

Like I said earlier, cherished memories 

Something about "we were soldiers/diggers once and young" - different war, same attitude

My favorite Gunks 5.5s are Black Fly (easily top-roped, by the way), Jackie, Dennis, Red Pillar, Hawk, No Picnic (though I prefer the 5.4 "variation" that used to be the original route), and Layback (in the Nears).  I look at Arch these days and wonder how I managed it BITD.  If you happen to be on Minty, I recall that the 5.5 overhang variation for P3 is good.

Great story Cherokee. You really got the feel.

Alan Rubinwrote:

Buck, Of the .4s you listed, in my opinion Gelsa is the best, or at least the most memorable. Yes, it is a bit loose and definitely intimidating for the grade, but those are some of the factors that make it special.

As for the .5s, Jackie is always one of my favorites---the first pitch has some interesting technical moves capped by a juggy overhang. The second pitch is nicely exposed, though I prefer to finish up the Classic corner, if it isn't occupied--even nicer climbing and no harder. Dennis is a good introduction to the grade---adjacent to Belly Roll, so in familiar territory for you. I was going to recommend several other .5s, but looking at the most recent guidebook, they are now all rated 5.6!!!!

If you have another mid-week Gunks trip planned, let me know and I might try to come down and join you. Also you, and Dragons, too, if she is interested, still have an open invitation to come to check out our climbs up here.

Oh Alan!

I'd love to share a rope with you at the Gunks!!!

I'll chat off-line about setting it up!

You can even crash at my place if you do not want to do the drive back that day.

Let's do it!

I've fallen so in love with the Gunks that I cannae bring myself to travel anywhere to climb when this area is in my backyard and I'm only here for two years!  Like my kiddos with Pokémon, I've go to "Climb" them all!  (or at least all that I can get up! Hope to be leading .6's by the very end of this year, maybe next year!--Delusions of Grandeur, most likely!)  And share the routes that used to be .5's!  They're probably the easiest .6's there now!

And Thanks to M M and PTR for the suggestions! I'm building a list!

Lastly: Tim U!  Damn, you went back to Afghan in '16, eh?  I only went there once and it was enough!  Three times to Iraq (twice with 2/5th SFA Group) and I hope to never return there again, either!

;)

Cherokee Nuneswrote:

Get her a big sledge hammer too!

Careful about that. I gave Sheree a pickaxe on Valentine's Day.  Wasn't a big hit.

 and a new vacuum!

3 weeks into our road trip and thought I'd inject some visuals for a brief break from the political spray. Gotta say it's been quite nice being removed from the media and associated news events while on the road, refreshing actually.

Some random pics from our travels. 

T Hockingwrote:

3 weeks into our road trip and thought I'd inject some visuals for a brief break from the political spray. Gotta say it's been quite nice being removed from the media and associated news events while on the road, refreshing actually.

Some random pics from our travels. 

Alright, Tad, this comment almost makes itself:

ALL PHOTOS ARE INVALID WITHOUT CAPTIONS!

What are "we" looking at?

And to all you "East Coasters" who keep posting photos and comments about the Gunks: I've spent two week-long periods climbing there over the years and OMG it's fantastic. But if you keep stoking the interest of us "West Coasters," you may end up with uninvited guests there to climb with you for a few days. Fair warning?

Brad Youngwrote:

Alright, Tad, this comment almost makes itself:

ALL PHOTOS ARE INVALID WITHOUT CAPTIONS!

What are "we" looking at?

And to all you "East Coasters" who keep posting photos and comments about the Gunks: I've spent two week-long periods climbing there over the years and OMG it's fantastic. But if you keep stoking the interest of us "West Coasters," you may end up with uninvited guests there to climb with you for a few days. Fair warning?

Mi casa es tu casa Brad!!!

Just let me know when to pick you up at the airport!

Brad Youngwrote:

Alright, Tad, this comment almost makes itself:

ALL PHOTOS ARE INVALID WITHOUT CAPTIONS!

What are "we" looking at?

And to all you "East Coasters" who keep posting photos and comments about the Gunks: I've spent two week-long periods climbing there over the years and OMG it's fantastic. But if you keep stoking the interest of us "West Coasters," you may end up with uninvited guests there to climb with you for a few days. Fair warning?

The climbing at the Gunks is great but it's hard to beat Sierra summer weather anywhere on the East Coast.

The full video of Padilla's takedown is pretty disturbing to watch...he's a Senator, ferchrissakes. Sure as hell has a strong look of authoritarianism to it- makes me a bit sick to my stomach to watch it.

Not out of the question that there was some media manipulation going on there, however- I didn't see any kind of ID information on Padilla, and he fairly barged his way towards Noem's podium. Still, the security response was pretty over the top. No doubt there are dynamics going on in this incident that aren't obvious from that video.

apogeewrote:

The full video of Padilla's takedown is pretty disturbing to watch...he's a Senator, ferchrissakes. Sure as hell has a strong look of authoritarianism to it- makes me a bit sick to my stomach to watch it.

Not out of the question that there was some media manipulation going on there, however- I didn't see any kind of ID information on Padilla, and he fairly barged his way towards Noem's podium. Still, the security response was pretty over the top. No doubt there are dynamics going on in this incident that aren't obvious from that video.

He said he was a senator. And sure anyone can say that but Noem knows him personally. He's the ranking member on the House Judiciary Committee which has oversight authority for DHS. So not only was he entirely within his rights to ask a question he's done so multiple times during committee hearings. She knew who he was.

Emil Briggswrote:

He said he was a senator. And sure anyone can say that but Noem knows him personally. He's the ranking member on the House Judiciary Committee which has oversight authority for DHS. So not only was he entirely within his rights to ask a question he's done so multiple times during committee hearings. She knew who he was.

All very true. Pushing Padilla out of the room was one thing...facedown cuffing him was about three steps beyond. Dems have been looking for a way to shine a brighter spotlight on the Trump administration's pushing of legal boundaries in many directions, and this is a pretty dramatic example of that. Newsom's recent response to threats of arrest ("Go ahead, tough guy") would have served a similar effect, probably more intensely.

While this is all disturbing and critically important, from a political strategizing standpoint, it's just an elevated level of 'Trump is Bad'. That strategy didn't work in the elections, and the Dems are using it because it's all they have. The 2-3 million voters who swayed the election know damn well that Trump is bad, and they voted for him anyway, because they didn't have a more enticing alternative. A new leadership voice needs to come forward, one that has solutions that actually serve the real issues that people are facing these days, and does it in a charismatic, intelligent way. 

Emil Briggswrote:

The climbing at the Gunks is great but it's hard to beat Sierra summer weather anywhere on the East Coast.

Is that an invitation?

dragonswrote:

Is that an invitation?

Haha I wish! I'm a North Carolina native though and our summers are worse than yours. I usually take a trip out west each year to escape the heat and humidity. Just got back from it. A week ago I even got snowed on for a bit in Banff. Sadly the dewpoints here are in the 70s.

Thanks to everyone who told me to watch Department Q, I have a name for the slab climb I did on this wall I call it “easily gotten goat”.  I also went online and procured 2 tickets to trump’s birthday parade, I’ll probably go bouldering and then to the no Kings protest in Fresno but I got them just in case.

Buck Rogerswrote:

Here's a shout out to Dragons who's out there "getting after it" this morning on Yum Yum Yab Yum!  I'm stuck at work in clinic but she is out there swapping leads on my favourite route that I have led so far in the Gunks!

Hopefully the weather holds for you and it is a great day, Dragons!

Also hoping that the weather holds for Sunday and that I can get back out there climbing with Dragons again!  Hoping to get on either Gelsa/Eowyn/King of P or Minty/Tipsy Trees/Southern Pillars.  All routes that I have not yet done but would like to before I start on all the .5's!

Any advice from the resident Gunkophiles on good first .5 leads in the Gunks?  I led Rusty Trifle and thought that the first pitch did have one or two Gunks .5 moves on the traverse that were not greatly protected but was otherwise fine and well within my limit for leading.

Looking for well protected .5's to get on!

Yo Buck,

I second the vote for Black Fly as another good Gunks 5.5 intro. It is short and gives you a flavor for it with lots of pro. Then I'd go with Jackie. All the other options mentioned sound good to me as well!

Okay, now pics of Yum Yum Yab Yum. Lori has me wondering about the origin of the name.

This is me nearing the top of P1:

Here's Bill following up P3 (which is more of a "hike" but still has a lot of exposure):

And here's my new friend, the skink at the P3 ledge. S/he decided that I was harmless after scoping me out for a while.

Alas, we did not get a pic on the big traverse. You have to get Rich to take you if you want one of those impressive pics