Hardest trad route in Colorado?

yeah, those were the other two that came to mind, but my guess is that full dunn-westbay is harder. (although i am completely speculating, so feel free to slander accordingly).

lost horizons used to get talked about once in a while, but it seems pretty forgotten. only has one tick, which is pretty surprising as it is at a semi-popular crag.

David Pneuman wrote:

If access can be had, I always thought Sphinx Crack near Pine in S. Platte was the hardest free classic trad route. There's another between Lyons and Estes Park high up on the right I can't seem to find mention of anymore also. Can't recall the name of it either.

Animal Magnetism

Mikey Schaefer wrote:

Ya, I'm honestly not very familiar with China Doll and its history (I'm not much of CO climber...)  I was wondering if it normally gets worked with the bolts and then head pointed on gear.  I have heard that referred to as a green point. 

I'm not aware of a single ground up ascent on gear. always a head point as far as I know. The gear on the first pitch is very finicky and still marginal, which is why lots of folks like Alex, Tommy, and Tom Moulin have just clipped the bolts on the first pitch since its just a rehearsal game anyways. 

Regardless, China Doll is far from the hardest in the state.If the P Wall Project goes down it might take it - Vasya has been working it - but from what I understand letting go to place gear is nearly impossible so will be keen to see...

Mikey Schaefer wrote:

Ya, I'm honestly not very familiar with China Doll and its history (I'm not much of CO climber...)  I was wondering if it normally gets worked with the bolts and then head pointed on gear.  I have heard that referred to as a green point. 

all of your questions are answered by Heather here, it sounds like that is exactly what happened with her send. And I think she said she was the second to do it on gear? 

https://378.137.myftpupload.com/?p=2548

eta: i am a poor listener

DaveC wrote:

Animal Magnetism

No. It's on the road from Lyons to Estes. High up on the right after the road steepens above the Buttonrock turnoff.

Researching some more on Sphinx Crack, there is one bolt, so out of the race.

Mikey Schaefer wrote:

Ya, I'm honestly not very familiar with China Doll and its history (I'm not much of CO climber...)  I was wondering if it normally gets worked with the bolts and then head pointed on gear.  I have heard that referred to as a green point. 

I believe that Matt Segal did it without the use of bolts, but still in headpoint style. Everyone else I’ve heard of doing it has used the bolts for TR/leading P1 before doing it on gear. 

David Pneuman wrote:

No. It's on the road from Lyons to Estes. High up on the right after the road steepens above the Buttonrock turnoff.

Researching some more on Sphinx Crack, there is one bolt, so out of the race.

I guess this brings up the point that the thread title should probably be "What's the hardest all-gear protected route in Colorado?"

Trad doesn't really mean a lack of bolts, it means going ground up.  Also, given that China Doll generally goes more "top down" so to speak it's hard to consider it a trad route.

But I think everybody else understood what the OP is looking for.

Footage of Vasya working a contender.

Trad means no bolts.

David Pneuman wrote:

Trad means no bolts.

lol

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/109538712/hall-of-mirrors

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105836362/snake-dike

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105762645/childhoods-end

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105799105/arrow

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105799095/never-never-land

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108837840/the-kokanee-corner

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106244878/bachar-yerian

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/109275454/father-time

Lane Mathis wrote:

Footage of Vasya working a contender.

Wow. That looks like a world-class route. The setting, the line, the difficulty. Hopefully Vasya can get it done.

Ross Exler wrote:

When I’ve seen people on it, they have clipped the bolts and worked out the moves and gear and then (I’m guessing) eventually did a pure gear ascent. The bolts end partway up, so working the full thing bolt to bolt is not an option. I’m guessing that a lot of people start by doing a lot of top roping, but I’ve never actually seen that in person.

Anyway, hardest in Colorado has to be Dunn-Westbay Direct, right?

Edit: just wanted to add another 14a - Jason Haas’ Comprometido in the South Platte. He also has a gorgeous 13d called Question your Progression, which might not be the hardest but is an outrageously aesthetically pleasing line. 

Anyone know if question your progression has seen any repeats?

Orangutan Overhang at Independence Pass is in contention for sent routes as well. I think Vas’s new “Link In Bio” is the answer but I’m not sure how much of the meaningful climbing is over gear vs bolts

Matt Rhodin wrote:

Anyone know if question your progression has seen any repeats?

Will Mayo did. https://vimeo.com/179091129

Maybe PeeWee too?

Iron monkey in kloof alcove is also trad 14a (maybe harder?)