Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: FA Andrew Boyd, FFA Hayden Kennedy
Page Views: 14,269 total · 119/month
Shared By: hkennedy on Apr 10, 2014 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Warning Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Kokanee Corner is an unreal test piece for a desert tower. 3 incredible pitches make this route one of the best lines in the desert! You gotta have all the tricks for this beast -- Crimping, ninja stemming, OW and everything in-between.

P1. Climb Egg Drop Soup 5.12

P2. The money pitch! The first half of this pitch is bolted and the second half is all gear. This pitch has 3 main sections and they are all unique. The hardest moves of the pitch are found in the first three bolts with a V6 strait into a V8ish boulder problem on very thin holds with poor feet. A few bolts of easy climbing with a nice rest lead to a very wild 5.12 stem with a V3 exit move. The final section of this pitch is both the redpoint and mental crux -- after clipping the last bolt bust a mantle into the start of the corner. Totally insane stemming and wild body english are involved for this section. A few key thin finger locks give a few shakes but the whole crux of the corner is less than tips. The corner finally opens up towards the end to good fingers to the anchor -- A full on 40m pitch!

P3. 5.12 finger crack with a very cool boulder problem off a hand jam. Finish on the last OW pitch on Sacred Space.

Location Suggest change

80 Meter rope is crucial for working the crux pitch.

Protection Suggest change

3 Grey C3s
2 Purple C3s
2 Green C3s
2 Red C3s
Double Set set after that

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