A 5.6 tour of the USA?

Memorable Vedauwoo 5.6 and under

- Walt’s Wall

- Stinkzig or Baldwin’s Chimney to access rapping off the flake.

- Northeast Cutoff

- Tarsalation

Linville gorge NC,

table rock for short approaches,

 the amphitheater for 1.5 hour approaches, 

both with beautiful climbing!

Daniel Joderwrote:

Nol, I like your mention of the importance of climbing history. Part of the joy would be in retracing the steps of previous generations and imagining what such a climb would have been like with the footwear and gear they had at the time. Impressive, bold stuff.

Lots of 5.6 and easier in the Needles of SD, the Conn's climbed in Keds with 60' of rope down climbed rather then rapping off, bold stuff was standard stuff back in the day. 

1000 feet of Fun - San Rafael Swell, UT is a blast if you are passing through. Second Shark’s Tooth in RMNP but the approach is pretty brutal.

CMC Route on Mt. Thorodin in Golden Gate Canyon State Park, CO is really nice - beautiful views, alpine feel at ~ 9000ft, no crowds.

If you craft a trip needing a break around New Mexico:

El Rito Traditional Area - very short approach; June-ish temps are good; 2 or 3 days?

Flake n Bake Area - near Albuquerque; good for a day. Spring and fall; summer’s too hot and winter can be good if/when calm and sunny. FS sometimes close gate to Lower La Cueva Picnic Area; if so, start from lower tram terminal.

Probably some good stuff in the Organ Mountains, west side, for spring and fall.  But I’ll leave that to my southern neighbors to describe.

Nol Hwrote:

A northeast addition that may be worthwhile is the A.M.C. Route (5.6) on Tumbledown Mountain in western Maine. Lots of hype from those that climb it! The Northeast Ridge of The Pinnacle (5.7) on Mount Washington is also very popular, especially for the exposed Fairy Tale Traverse. Both are a bit less roadside than many other suggestions for the northeast. Another suggestion just a bit harder than 5.6 is of course the Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7) on Cannon Cliff and the West Chimney (5.7) of the Eaglet. Some of these suggestions are very important climbs in modern North American climbing history, considering they're like 80-100 years old now and represent some of the first roped rock climbs on the continent. 

The Trap Dike in the Adirondacks is a great 4th class outing too in a beautiful part of the High Peaks region.

The Canine (5.6) on the Dorian Tower in Ontario is also an interesting aside but not in the USA obviously

If you're coming up to Canada, I would add Le Dome in Grand Jardins to the list. I haven't done it but everyone who talks about it does so in golden terms. It stands unique as a very accessible and very long trad adventure around here.

Camay at Mont Pinacle is also quite good.

Since you're already in the area, maybe going to check out Hocus Pocus and some other sport routes in Kamouraska would be nice.

There are some really, really nice suggestions in these last 6-8 posts. Thanks! Looks like Canada will have to be added. I’m taking notes and it’s turning into more of a thick “bucket bible” rather than a mere “bucket list”. As to Exum on the Grand… maybe. That could be pushing it a bit. Would need to get at it soon before the gout gets worse! ; )

Not Hobo Greg wrote:

Better enjoy free soloing if you’re gonna do that one! There’s back to back pitches of 5.4 slab with no bolts in the 200’ between the anchors. Any gear you’d find would be make believe due to the soft nature of Navajo sandstone. Awesome climb in an even more awesome setting, but pretty serious too.

Every route there is a bit of a puckerfest but this one had a feel of hiking with a rope.

Pamola ridge on Katadyn is a pretty awesome alpine scramble. Very little 5.6, with great views, lots of ledges and longish (for the east) finish with a hike across the knife edge. Pretty good day.

If you're in the neighborhood anyway, Maple Canyon UT is pretty fun! Really unusual, and feels improbable, those consolidated cobbles. I climbed there with a sprained ankle, lol! 

City of Rocks has not a lot specifically at 5.6, but, some routes up to 5.8 are still pretty easy, and some aren't. Certain developers put in more bolts. There are quite a few routes that are under 5.6, and fun, imo, however, those don't always have pro, trad or otherwise! It's mostly pretty easy access. I hobbled in to Drilling Fields on that same sprained ankle. There are bits of scrambling, and some steep approaches, but plenty of it is just a pleasant walk. 

Even for an old lady with arthritic knees. 

Not Hobo Greg wrote:

Better enjoy free soloing if you’re gonna do that one! There’s back to back pitches of 5.4 slab with no bolts in the 200’ between the anchors. Any gear you’d find would be make believe due to the soft nature of Navajo sandstone. Awesome climb in an even more awesome setting, but pretty serious too.

Hmmm… not at all my recollection, and I am not a bold leader by any stretch. I thought the gear was good in solid rock- it’s a trad climb with bolted anchors and was a casual and enjoyable day out. The crux was the multiple double rope raps which took forever and got old since tossing ropes on low angle slab is a pain. The other routes we did there were definitely pucker fests, but not this one!

 https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105718108/1000-of-fun

A few years ago a good friend made it his summer project to climb every 5.6 in the Trapps (the main cliff) at the Gunks. He did not get close. If that is the grade you seek you can simply set up shop and go to it. Throw in 5.7, and you will be there for a year.

climber patwrote:

What's your line at Cochise stronghold

Add Waterfall Cracks (soft 5.7) and Four Course Meal (5.Fun) at Cochise. 

Chris Trautzwrote:

The Precious, Diagon Alley and Unicorn Starlight, in Highland, Maine. Certainly won't be crowded, surprisingly good quality, and free camping in a beautiful place. Plus the opportunity to put up a 5.6 or two of your own! 

Unicorn starlight is a mega classic! 

cassondra lwrote:

Along with the previously mentioned Solar Slab and Cat in the Hat in Red Rock, Geronimo and Physical Graffiti are worthwhile. 

I would second physical graffiti as possibly the best 5.6 I have ever done.  Way better than any 5.6 I have done on the east coat.

Live Perchedwrote:

Add Waterfall Cracks (soft 5.7) and Four Course Meal (5.Fun) at Cochise. 

I’ll second waterfall cracks if the hike up is not too much. Can even rap from the summit with the right rope(s) which is easy on the knees/feet.

Posted elsewhere, What’s My Line, is worthy but can amount to a ton of time on approach and deproach.

Bill Lawrywrote:

I’ll second waterfall cracks if the hike up is not too much. Can even rap from the summit with the right rope(s) which is easy on the knees/feet.

Posted elsewhere, What’s My Line, is worthy but can amount to a ton of time on approach and deproach.

Can but still worth it, just not an easy approach. I actually avoided the climb on my first visit or two then finally got on it. Such an amazing line!

Yosemite Valley

Grack Center 5.6

Note:  if you can handle one 5.7 friction move with a bolt at your waist, Snake Dike 5.7 is great (can be crowded on weekends)

Similarly, Royal Arches can be done at 5.7 A0, but has more 5.7

Tuolumne Meadows

Great White Book 5.6 R

Cathedral Peak - SE Buttress 5.6  (crowded)

Note:  Hobbit Book is 5.7 R, probably not suitable

Lover's Leap

East Wall 5.6

Bugaboos

Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route 5.6

Snowpatch Spire, SE Corner 5.6

Pigeon Spire, West Ridge 5.4

M Mwrote:

Can but still worth it, just not an easy approach. I actually avoided the climb on my first visit or two then finally got on it. Such an amazing line!

Yes.   It could just fit this criteria:

“.,. although an alpine route or two might not be out of the question if the line is gorgeous enough.”

The views of Rockfellow Group compliment that quality route.  Loved even just the slot up to the start of it.  I believe at the time one of my partners was a year into a knee replacement.  We got out well after dark. 

Chris Trautzwrote:

The Precious, Diagon Alley and Unicorn Starlight, in Highland, Maine. Certainly won't be crowded, surprisingly good quality, and free camping in a beautiful place. Plus the opportunity to put up a 5.6 or two of your own! 

OK. I’m almost a lifelong New England climber who has been immersed in the minutiae of our sport, but I admit to my ignorance regarding any climbing in “Highland, Maine” , let alone that there is a crag there with such a collection of stellar sounding climbs. Could you please direct me to where I can get more information, as I am not seeing anything obvious here on MP. Thanks.