A 5.6 tour of the USA?
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OK, so what if two older, yet experienced, guys were to travel across the US for a few months and climb nothing harder than 5.6? What would be the routes (trad primarily, but sport, too) NOT to miss? Yes, feel free to mention the classics (like East Faces of 1st and 3rd Flatirons, High Exposure Exit in the Gunks, etc.), but these guys are especially interested in routes that are pretty damn good but don't have the instant Mountain Project 4-star recognition, thus heavy traffic. Maybe routes in newly developed areas? They are thinking of multiple longer trips over the next 2-3 years so as to hit areas during their respective Goldilocks seasons. Oh, and consider that these characters are "older", so shorter approaches would be preferable for those gouty knees and flat feet--although an alpine route or two might not be out of the question if the line is gorgeous enough. Asking for a couple of friends. |
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I wouldn't say any single route for a "not to miss", but, I think there's enough easy stuff to have fun on at City of Rocks (including Castle Rock). I'm sure we could find someone to rope gun a few things for, uh, your friends, since there's also stuff that's easy, except for one bit, that sorta thing. Come when the over 50s are there in June? Campsite is all paid up! But, whenever it is, if it does happen? I'll happily shoot over to say howdy!
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Exum Ridge on Grand Teton fits. I’ve never done it but climbers I know that have say it’s a blast. Seneca Rocks in WV has a ton of good routes at that grade. Conn’s East is a good example. The Daddy in Linville Gorge NC is not to be missed. Also in NC at Moore’s Wall, Wailing Wall is a fantastic 5.6. They should be able to do a national tour of 5.6 no problem. Probably far many more long routes in the west vs the east though. |
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What's your line at Cochise stronghold |
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The Standard Route at Whitehorse Ledge. |
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Cathedral Peak Conness Wolf’s Head Shockley’s (hardest 5.6 I’ve ever done) Madame G’s (way better than High E imo) |
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Organ Pipes at Lumpy Ridge RMNP is pretty unique and in a cool area but I don't know if I'd go too far out of my way just to do that one route. |
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If you are coming through SLC, Steorts' Ridge is a great one with a short approach. |
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WA’s generally agreed upon two 5.6 classics seem to be Liberty Bell’s Becky Route and Forbidden Peak’s West Ridge. Enjoy! |
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Hire some pack mules and go do East Ridge on Wolf's Head in Wind River. Sorry, yes it does have 4 * and is crowded, but if there's only one 5.6 left to do in your life; this is the one. |
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Wailing Wall at Moore’s Wall NC. |
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all the 5.6 in seneca is 5.8 so if you really want 5.6 there do the 5.4s ;) Gunsite to South Peak Direct 5.4 is about as classic as you can get for a short 5.6 |
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Ditto Nick's point about Seneca |
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Nick Goldsmithwrote: Ha! Not all, but your point is well taken, and I agree. |
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Oh man you have to hit Eureka in the RRG every love on that is pure 5.6 and fun as hell |
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The Precious, Diagon Alley and Unicorn Starlight, in Highland, Maine. Certainly won't be crowded, surprisingly good quality, and free camping in a beautiful place. Plus the opportunity to put up a 5.6 or two of your own! |
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Cathedral peak southeast buttress, near. Bear creek spire northeast ridge, Solar Slab, chapel pond slab Empress, Whitehorse ledge standard route, Henderson ridge, high E |
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Horseshoe Canyon Ranch has a lot of easy sport climbs in Arkansas |
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North ridge on Spearhead in RMNP comes to mind. Moreso for the setting and exposure, the climbing is just okay. |
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Wow, lots of great suggestions! Thanks MP folks. I laughed out loud at the Seneca Rocks suggestion to keep it at 5.4… Yeah, good point about how ratings vary across the country. We wouldn’t be strictly limited to 5.6, but the idea is to have loads of fairly low threat fun on beautiful rock in beautiful places, so I just set that arbitrary limit. Would love to get to the City of Rocks “senior” get-together, but likely won’t happen this year. Thanks, all, and keep ‘‘em coming. |
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Old lady Hwrote: My mostly-old but very-fun crew will be in the Lodge at Castle Rock the last week of June. Drop by for a cocktail on the lawn if you're there that week. |




