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A 5.6 tour of the USA?

Original Post
Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

OK, so what if two older, yet experienced, guys were to travel across the US for a few months and climb nothing harder than 5.6? What would be the routes (trad primarily, but sport, too) NOT to miss? Yes, feel free to mention the classics (like East Faces of 1st and 3rd Flatirons, High Exposure Exit in the Gunks, etc.), but these guys are especially interested in routes that are pretty damn good but don't have the instant Mountain Project 4-star recognition, thus heavy traffic. Maybe routes in newly developed areas? They are thinking of multiple longer trips over the next 2-3 years so as to hit areas during their respective Goldilocks seasons. Oh, and consider that these characters are "older", so shorter approaches would be preferable for those gouty knees and flat feet--although an alpine route or two might not be out of the question if the line is gorgeous enough. 

Asking for a couple of friends.

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375

I wouldn't say any single route for a "not to miss", but, I think there's enough easy stuff to have fun on at City of Rocks (including Castle Rock). 

I'm sure we could find someone to rope gun a few things for, uh, your friends, since there's also stuff that's easy, except for one bit, that sorta thing.

Come when the over 50s are there in June? Campsite is all paid up! 

But, whenever it is, if it does happen? I'll happily shoot over to say howdy!

 

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 170

Exum Ridge on Grand Teton fits.  I’ve never done it  but climbers I know that have say it’s a blast.  Seneca Rocks in WV has a ton of good routes at that grade.  Conn’s East is a good example.  The Daddy in Linville Gorge NC is not to be missed.  Also in NC at Moore’s Wall, Wailing Wall is a fantastic 5.6.  They should be able to do a national tour of 5.6 no problem.  Probably far many more long routes in the west vs the east though.

climber pat · · Las Cruces NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 301

What's your line at Cochise stronghold

Brent Moore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 0

The Standard Route at Whitehorse Ledge. 

Doctor Drake · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 126

Cathedral Peak

Conness

Wolf’s Head

Shockley’s (hardest 5.6 I’ve ever done)

Madame G’s (way better than High E imo)

Shane Davis · · Oklahoma/ Arkansas · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 20

Organ Pipes at Lumpy Ridge RMNP is pretty unique and in a cool area but I don't know if I'd go too far out of my way just to do that one route.   

Mike Williams · · Bend, OR · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 361

If you are coming through SLC, Steorts' Ridge is a great one with a short approach.

Chris C · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407

WA’s generally agreed upon two 5.6 classics seem to be Liberty Bell’s Becky Route and Forbidden Peak’s West Ridge. Enjoy! 

Patrik · · Third rock from Sun · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 30

Hire some pack mules and go do East Ridge on Wolf's Head in Wind River. Sorry, yes it does have 4 * and is crowded, but if there's only one 5.6 left to do in your life; this is the one.

Andrew Jackson · · Greensboro, NC · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 38

Wailing Wall at Moore’s Wall NC.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

all the 5.6 in seneca is 5.8 so if you really want 5.6 there do the 5.4s ;)  Gunsite to South Peak   Direct 5.4 is about as classic as you can get for a short 5.6

Michael Catlett · · Middleburg, VA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 175

Ditto Nick's point about Seneca

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 170
Nick Goldsmithwrote:

all the 5.6 in seneca is 5.8 so if you really want 5.6 there do the 5.4s ;)  Gunsite to South Peak   Direct 5.4 is about as classic as you can get for a short 5.6

Ha!  Not all, but your point is well taken, and I agree.

Dylan H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 0

Oh man you have to hit Eureka in the RRG every love on that is pure 5.6 and fun as hell

Chris Trautz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 90

The Precious, Diagon Alley and Unicorn Starlight, in Highland, Maine. Certainly won't be crowded, surprisingly good quality, and free camping in a beautiful place. Plus the opportunity to put up a 5.6 or two of your own! 

Mike Climberson · · Earth · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 155

Cathedral peak southeast buttress, near. Bear creek spire northeast ridge, Solar Slab, chapel pond slab Empress, Whitehorse ledge standard route, Henderson ridge, high E

Andrew R · · Marion, IA · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch has a lot of easy sport climbs in Arkansas 

Phil ingmyself · · Pennsyl-tucky · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 5

North ridge on Spearhead in RMNP comes to mind.  Moreso for the setting and exposure, the climbing is just okay. 

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Wow, lots of great suggestions! Thanks MP folks. I laughed out loud at the Seneca Rocks suggestion to keep it at 5.4… Yeah, good point about how ratings vary across the country. We wouldn’t be strictly limited to 5.6, but the idea is to have loads of fairly low threat fun on beautiful rock in beautiful places, so I just set that arbitrary limit. Would love to get to the City of Rocks “senior” get-together, but likely won’t happen this year. Thanks, all, and keep ‘‘em coming. 

Jay Anderson · · Cupertino, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0
Old lady Hwrote:

Come when the over 50s are there in June? Campsite is all paid up! 

My mostly-old but very-fun crew will be in the Lodge at Castle Rock the last week of June.  Drop by for a cocktail on the lawn if you're there that week.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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