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Routes in Flake n' Bake

Flake n' Bake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friction Addition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lena's Cousin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lena's Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 7,152 ft
GPS: 35.208, -106.477 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,711 total · 35/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description and Directions

Only one real route on this area, but a nice one for the beginning leader or if you wanna take some newbies out "trad-climbin"! Mellow, low angle route taking you up two pitches on high quality rock.

To get there, hike up lower LaCueva canyon, finding Bathtub falls (this is a short fall you will come across about 20 minutes up the canyon). There are giant boulders all over the area stemming from recent rockfall. From Bathtub falls look north and you will see the low angled flake that is the climb you are looking for. The double crack leading to a small roof is quite obvious.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Flake n' Bake

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake n' Bake
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Flake n' Bake 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
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The right bolt hanger at the top of P2 has a really loose (able to spin with my fingers) nut. If you head up there next, you could earn a lot of good karma and low gravity days with a wrench! May 2, 2017
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
Climbing in the Flake n' Bake area can be extended both below and above to make a 3 or 4 pitch climb.

Below pitch 1 of the route Flake n' Bake is a run-out lead that starts on a shallow angled slab and initially follows an intermittent crack trending to climber's left and then up and back right (Slab Happy, 5.3). Paralleling that is a straight-up top-rope var (The Slab, 5.7). Both end at the ample ledge with bolted anchor ("Lunch Ledge") at the base of Flake and Bake route.

Above, or rather, splitting off pitch 2 of the route Flake n' Bake are a couple short routes: either finish up a steeper, obvious, slightly right-trending, hand-crack (In A Jam, 5.7); or face climb (top rope, 5.8) just to the left of and paralleling In A Jam.

These additional route names and ratings come from Barry and Rita Loucks' guide. They may warrant separate route pages instead of this comment - feel free if inclined. Oct 31, 2008
Since you're up there anyway...
There's a pretty cool route that follows the arete on the right side corner of the F&B slab. It starts with tricky face climbing proteced with a bolt and then goes into easy and good finger/hand cracks. Then just layback the easy arete to the F&B anchor. Very easy on the arete but with fun movement and great position. And a good TR if you make sure to place some directionals on top. Oct 30, 2008

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