Sequencey/unique .75-1 sized cracks at/around the Creek

Looking for suggestions for .75-1 sized cracks at the Creek that are sequence-y, or unique in their crux moves/techniques required/etc. Most of what I have on my to-do list so far looks (to my pretty untrained eye) mostly enduro-y, which I'm also stoked to work on (and is obviously a huge part of splitter climbing); but I'd be stoked to find a few climbs where I can work on reading/executing tricky crack sequences as well.

Sicilian looks kinda like what I'm thinking of, but appears to be more .5's than .75-1. Perhaps Pente?

Also up for climbs in the Moab area outside the Creek proper.

Thanks!

Pente down low has some good sequencing. It's also a mega classic so get on it! Check out some crack-switch climbs like Sinestra and Nine Lives; also enduro climbs but the cracks switches put you in great positions with some more thoughtful movement. 

Oh! Also, Go Sparky Go will have you feeling sporty.

Thanks for the great recommendations! Hope to get on a bunch of these, especially 9 Lives (just hope the 3s in the roof stay tight because climbing a roof on rattly fists sounds painful and hard, lol), Go Sparky Go, and East Face of Sunflower.

Annunaki kinda looks like a harder and more sustained version of the crux of Yin and Yang, which kinda scares but also should be fun to work on :)

Top Sirloin looks like it may just be my perfect splitter hand crack for the trip! I’ll start asking friends for 1s....

The only one I can think of off the top of my head that is similar to what you're describing is Crack Attack. The crux for most is the 0.75 section, but perhaps elsewhere for you. It's unique in any case. The Wave might fit the bill as well. Some other more endurance-oriented routes in that size range that come to mind (the first six are all at the Battle of the Bulge Wall):
- Black Corner
- Battle of the Bulge
- Quarter of a Man
- Cave Route
- Our Piece of Real Estate
- Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout
- Heat Searcher (2nd pitch)
- Soul Fire
- Slice and Dice
- Technicolor
- Go Drown in a Lake of Diet Coke, Fucker!
- Speedy Gonzolas
- Double Trouble
- Pigs on the Wing
- Fatted Calf

Neil Wachowski wrote: The only one I can think of off the top of my head that is similar to what you're describing is Crack Attack. The crux for most is the 0.75 section, but perhaps elsewhere for you. It's unique in any case. The Wave might fit the bill as well. Some other more endurance-oriented routes in that size range that come to mind (the first six are all at the Battle of the Bulge Wall):
- Black Corner
- Battle of the Bulge
- Quarter of a Man
- Cave Route
- Our Piece of Real Estate
- Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout
- Heat Searcher (2nd pitch)
- Soul Fire
- Slice and Dice
- Technicolor
- Go Drown in a Lake of Diet Coke, Fucker!
- Speedy Gonzolas
- Double Trouble
- Pigs on the Wing
- Fatted Calf

Ooh, Crack Attack looks really cool. Though yeah, I suspect the crux for me will be the "fist-large hands in a flaring slot" before the roof.

Definitely planning to spend a day or several at Battle of the Bulge Wall!

Etha Williams wrote: Thanks for the great recommendations! Hope to get on a bunch of these, especially 9 Lives (just hope the 3s in the roof stay tight because climbing a roof on rattly fists sounds painful and hard, lol), Go Sparky Go, and East Face of Sunflower.

Annunaki kinda looks like a harder and more sustained version of the crux of Yin and Yang, which kinda scares but also should be fun to work on :)

Top Sirloin looks like it may just be my perfect splitter hand crack for the trip! I’ll start asking friends for 1s....

The roof is not too cruxy, the tight hands in the first half is where you risk pumping out!

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105718849/right-arm

Zack Cleary wrote:

The roof is not too cruxy, the tight hands in the first half is where you risk pumping out!

Haha, well if the Kelley guidebook sizing is accurate, then that part will be perfect hands for me! Though atm I am still very capable of pumping out on perfect hands...hopefully getting some mileage at the Creek will improve that situation :)

Greg Barnes wrote: mountainproject.com/route/1…

Woahhhhh that looks cool. Thanks for the pointer! Also looks like it fulfills another want, namely, climbs with wide bits that are short enough to be able to French free through without too much hassle if needed.

BTW, on a different note, would also welcome any suggestions for the easiest 0.4-sized cracks at the Creeks. Looking to get some practice with ringlocks in between playing around on good hands :)

Easier 0.4-sized cracks is a tougher one. Most that come to mind are 11+ and up. These are easier and I think at least have some sections of 0.4s:
- Petrelli Motors at Blue Gramma
- Take 5 at 4x4
- Mr. Peanut at Donnelly Canyon
- Dr. Carl at Reservoir Wall
- Breakfast Social at Selfish Wall
- Heinz 58 at Tenderloins

Those may or may not be good suggestions. It's been a while since I've done most of them, and can't recall how 0.4-heavy they are.

Camping under the influence 12- real good 

Cole Lawrence wrote: Camping under the influence 12- real good 

Looks fun! (And hard! Especially depending on the amount and trickiness of the 0.4-0.5 climbing...)

While I'm shamelessly soliciting beta here, I'll happily take any suggestions for rim routes that favor the .75-1 sizes, too.

Neil Wachowski wrote: Easier 0.4-sized cracks is a tougher one. Most that come to mind are 11+ and up. These are easier and I think at least have some sections of 0.4s:
- Petrelli Motors at Blue Gramma
- Take 5 at 4x4
- Mr. Peanut at Donnelly Canyon
- Dr. Carl at Reservoir Wall
- Breakfast Social at Selfish Wall
- Heinz 58 at Tenderloins

Those may or may not be good suggestions. It's been a while since I've done most of them, and can't recall how 0.4-heavy they are.

I second Petrelli Motors. Easy stances with .4 inbetwesn. Then you can go climb Blue Gramma, which is a classic. 

If #1 is your hand size, .5-.75 will be ringlocks. .4 will still be fingers, but maybe baggy/off-fingers.

Zack Cleary wrote:

I second Petrelli Motors. Easy stances with .4 inbetwesn. Then you can go climb Blue Gramma, which is a classic. 

Cool! Thanks, Neil and Zack. Sounds like a fun day :) “Unnamed 5.9+/big hands dihedral” at the same wall seems like a fun one to work on rattly fists/stacks, too.

aclayden wrote: If #1 is your hand size, .5-.75 will be ringlocks. .4 will still be fingers, but maybe baggy/off-fingers.

My perfect hand size is baggy .75s to tight #1s...I can get pretty usable tight hands in almost the whole .5 range until really tight .5s (probably somewhere around perfect red alien size) where it becomes the awkward too small for a decent tight hand but too big for a “good” ringlock size.

As a reference point, Indian Summer at the New was mostly hands to thin hands for me with a brief section of ringlocks and maybe a fingerlock or two at the top... It still felt really hard, lol.

In this size range, by grade:

Thin Hand (1"-1.25")

473. un PO c 5.8 ***
533. Warm-Up 5.9 ***
753. Short and Stupid 5.9 ***
586. Drainpipe 5.10a ***
131. Samurai Loving 5.10
361. Cat Man Do 5.10 *** S2
542. Cal and Andy's Route 5.10
5. Manifest Destiny 5.10d D2
137. Tube Steaks Tomorrow 5.10d C2.5 **
401. Dreadasaurus 5.10+
75. Fatted Calf 5.11- *** S2
134. Sesh One Cooking 5.11- D2 **
417. un RV m 5.11-
517. Crack Attack 5.11- ***
541. Cave Route 5.11a D2
554. The Moon Also Rises 5.11a D2
807. Soul Fire 5.11- *
869. Lightning Bolt Cracks 5.11- ***
441. Scarface 5.11b *** S2
529. Jane Fonda Total Body Workout 5.11b *** D2
544. Black Corner 5.11b *** D2
550. Slim Chance 5.11b C2
627. Painted Pony 5.11b
122. Top Sirloin 5.11 *** D2.5
393. Overlook p2 5.11 ***
557. Three Strikes You're Out 5.11c *** D2
579. Elephant Man p3 5.11c D2
102. Rump Roast 5.11d D2
105. un TL e 5.11+
320. Alley Cat 5.11+ *** C2
330. Hair Bald p1 5.11+
342. Mad Dog 5.11+ ***
374. Excuse Station 5.11d *** S2
419. Thank God for Pods 5.11+ ***
459. Sudden Impact 5.11d *** D2
617. Coyne Crack 5.11d *** S2
626. Amaretto p2 5.11+ *** D2
683. Sidewinder 5.11d C2
136. T-Bones Tonight 5.12a *** D2
292. Nine Lives 5.12a *** S2
382. Slot Machine 5.12a *** D2
543. Quarter of a Man 5.12a *** D2
674. Cow Crack 5.12a *** S2
55. Broken Brain 5.12b *** S2.5
701. Way Rambo 5.12b ***
67. Sacred Cow 5.12c *** S2
576. Ocean Negro p2 5.12c *** S2
202. Six Star Crack p2 5.13a/b *** S2

S2 = splitter (straight in), #2 Friend size
D2 = dihedral
C2 = general crack
Size determined by the Friend size you need the most of; climb may have other sizes as well.
List is purely by size, could be enduro and not sequency like you asked for.
I found Pente was the most difficult size right at the very top, where it is not as steep but narrows down.

Ooh that’s great, Clint, thanks so much! Did you compile that yourself or get it from a source? I’ve been looking around for something that sorts Creek routes by size to no avail.

Clint Cummins wrote: In this size range, by grade:

Thin Hand (1"-1.25")

473. un PO c 5.8 ***
533. Warm-Up 5.9 ***
753. Short and Stupid 5.9 ***
586. Drainpipe 5.10a ***
131. Samurai Loving 5.10
361. Cat Man Do 5.10 *** S2
542. Cal and Andy's Route 5.10
5. Manifest Destiny 5.10d D2
137. Tube Steaks Tomorrow 5.10d C2.5 **
401. Dreadasaurus 5.10+
75. Fatted Calf 5.11- *** S2
134. Sesh One Cooking 5.11- D2 **
417. un RV m 5.11-
517. Crack Attack 5.11- ***
541. Cave Route 5.11a D2
554. The Moon Also Rises 5.11a D2
807. Soul Fire 5.11- *
869. Lightning Bolt Cracks 5.11- ***
441. Scarface 5.11b *** S2
529. Jane Fonda Total Body Workout 5.11b *** D2
544. Black Corner 5.11b *** D2
550. Slim Chance 5.11b C2
627. Painted Pony 5.11b
122. Top Sirloin 5.11 *** D2.5
393. Overlook p2 5.11 ***
557. Three Strikes You're Out 5.11c *** D2
579. Elephant Man p3 5.11c D2
102. Rump Roast 5.11d D2
105. un TL e 5.11+
320. Alley Cat 5.11+ *** C2
330. Hair Bald p1 5.11+
342. Mad Dog 5.11+ ***
374. Excuse Station 5.11d *** S2
419. Thank God for Pods 5.11+ ***
459. Sudden Impact 5.11d *** D2
617. Coyne Crack 5.11d *** S2
626. Amaretto p2 5.11+ *** D2
683. Sidewinder 5.11d C2
136. T-Bones Tonight 5.12a *** D2
292. Nine Lives 5.12a *** S2
382. Slot Machine 5.12a *** D2
543. Quarter of a Man 5.12a *** D2
674. Cow Crack 5.12a *** S2
55. Broken Brain 5.12b *** S2.5
701. Way Rambo 5.12b ***
67. Sacred Cow 5.12c *** S2
576. Ocean Negro p2 5.12c *** S2
202. Six Star Crack p2 5.13a/b *** S2

S2 = splitter (straight in), #2 Friend size
D2 = dihedral
C2 = general crack
Size determined by the Friend size you need the most of; climb may have other sizes as well.
List is purely by size, could be enduro and not sequency like you asked for.
I found Pente was the most difficult size right at the very top, where it is not as steep but narrows down.