South Dakota climbing trip... MT. Rushmoore, Needles, Spearfish

Any recommendations in general? I went last year for like 3 days, so somewhat familiar with the area

Mainly:
1) Camping locations
2) Routes to tick (10a-12b range)
3) Things to check out
4) What to do on a down day (rainy)
5) Anything else...

I definitely second the Baba Cool recommendation. Ladies in Love at the South Seas is a cool, unique route.

For camping, there is a free spot right near the South Seas area. I think it's called Wrinkled Rock.

Devil's Tower is only a short distance away and it's worth a few days if you haven't been there.

This is a sweet feature

mountainproject.com/v/south…

If you are into spearfish I would check out Thunderhead, very impressive.

Do not pay for any camping. A friend and I made this mistake while other friends of ours stayed for free at the Wrinkled Rock site. Stay at the Wrinkled Rock site. I second the recommendation for Tricouni nail, it's one of the coolest climbs I've ever been on. On rainy days we would go into Keystone and look at all the touristy crap that the stores sell and eat at A&W. Another thing is that we had mostly climbed on quartzite and limestone prior to this trip and the granite took getting used to, so be prepared for that if you do not see granite often.
Have fun.

My fav routes from last year were:

Mr. Critical
The Pollinator

Totem Pole
Nantucket Sleighride
Barber Route
Tent Peg

I really liked the Tenpins a lot. Just as cool as the Needles Eye but way less of a cluster. I wish we had climbed in the Outlets. It looks like a really pretty, relatively secluded area.

Black Hills MUST DO's!!!
-STAR DANCER @ Rushmore. Allthough "only" a 5.8 this route is STELLAR.
-Cocktails on the Patio of Sylvan Lake Lodge. Incredible view of Harney Peak. A very pretty bartendar 3 weeks ago!! Don't worry if you are grubbed out from climbing.
-Hike/Climb Harney Peak. Might as well knock off a state highpoint.
-A night in DEADWOOD. You don't have to gamble. This town absolutely cooks at night. Live Music at the Saloon 10!!

There are an awful lot of good trad 5.8's and 5.9's that will absolutely not bore you, but...whatever. If you do consider some lower grade slumming, one of the classic Cathedral Spires link-ups is to do the East Face of the East Gruesome (5.8+), rap into the notch between the East Gruesome and the South Tower of Spire Four, and then climb the South Tower route (5.7).

A few other old-school classics:

Needle's Eye Area:

Sore Thumb 5.9 (ok, it's 5.9 but another classic and just a few steps off the road).

Kamps Crack 5.10 on the Bell Tower.

Tenpins:

End Pin (North Face) 5.10+.

Outlets:

Nick of Time 5.10- on the Outer Outlet.

Cathedral Spires

Freak's Fright South Ridge 5.10

Forgot to mention.... no trad rack, unfortunately. My funds currently allow for only a sport setup.

No gear? Yikes...I don't know of much sport at the Needles. The Ten Pins area alone is just great trad stuff to do..classics all over the place and with Wisconsin climber first ascent history too.

I've only been to Spearfish Canyon, and almost everything is bolted, so if you don't have a trad rack, you should be fine there. Not too sure about the Needles & Rushmore...

Welle wrote:Forgot to mention.... no trad rack, unfortunately. My funds currently allow for only a sport setup.

i was there last year sport climbing at all three places. we will be there for about 10 days in early september, mostly at spearfish. i looked up some of the classics you mentioned like baba cool, mr. critical, and maximum overdrive. these sound awesome and definitely gonna jump on them. any others??

Haven't been to Spearfish but the Mt Rushmore area has a lot of great sport routes in a small area, particularly the South Seas and Chopping block area. It will take you some time to navigate around the formations, don't hesitate to ask for directions. Most of the areas are right next to the road.

Baba Cool is pretty easy to find. Lots of nice routes in the Middle Marker area as well: mountainproject.com/v/south…

There are plenty of routes in Custer that don't require a rack but you need to have a good head for old school 'sporty' routes as there are quite a few run outs. I recall that things take a little longer to find as well, outside of the Pins and Needles Eye

A very cool guide book is the new "The Adventure Climbs of Herb and Jan Conn". Even though you are going "sport" it gives one a true appreciation of these legends and their accomplishments in the Hills.

chesslerbooks.com/eCart/vie…

So the best (free) places to camp are Wrinkled Rock near Custer or Spearfish city Campground on Canyon St? Any other free or cheap spots to camp. Do these places have water or toilets?

Wrinkle rock is actually closer to Hill City or Keystone than Custer. There is one vault and no water, so bring a jug. Otherwise most of the Southern hills are all national Forrest land and as long as you walk 50/100? feet off the road, trails, water source you can camp for free anywhere. If you have a high clearance vehicle you will be just fine with this option. From Wrinkle rock you will be with in a 30 minute walk to a TON of great sport routes in the Rushmore area.

I just picked up the adventure route book and it is a great book with stories, route info and lots of pictures. Well worth the money and the routes are a blast! I second peter's comment. Granite Sports has a bunch of copies.

OK, let me restate my request. Where is the best place to camp near:

1)Spearfish
2)Rushmore

With water, toilet/out-house, and fire permission. At a reasonable price... under $20 a night.

Thanks everyone!

Rushmore - Wrinkled Rock is basically AT Rushmore. FREE, Toilet,
I don't recall if it has a water pump. I don't think so. Just bring a bunch of jugs. Can bath at Horse Thief Lake just down the road.
If you climb at Sylvan you will need a State Park Sticker. Not that expensive and good for a week. But then you can cruise into campground at sylvan lake and use the showers.