Avg: 3.9 from 19 votes
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft|
|FA:||Henry Barber, Dennis Horning, Chip Lee, 1977|
|Page Views:||7,448 total · 57/month|
|Shared By:||Kris Gorny on Jun 18, 2007|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
DescriptionStarting from the base of the north side of Superpin (the side facing Cathedral Spires) climb up a dirty vegetated 5.8 crack (bad pro) which widens into a chimney. Go up the chimney and step left onto a comfortable ledge between Superpin and Tent Peg. Alternatively (and safer), the ledge can also be reached by a short scramble from the landing between Tricouni and Superpin. The proper climb starts from the ledge. Take a step across the chimney onto Superpin. Sling a flake (or place a large nut behind it), go up and pull the crux bulge. Continue on fun but run out 5.7 crystals to a finishing section of 5.8 face climbing that leads to the top.
The X-rating is given because the route has a potential for a serious fall to the ground with no protection.
Barber has pleaded for years to remove the bolts and finally returned in the summer of 2011 and removed them; as they were not added by him or with his permission.
"Touch the sky" , Paul Piana
"The Needles" , Zach Orenczak and Rachel Lynn
LocationFrom the pull off by the End Pin, walk down along the road, roughly 10 yards past the trail for Tricouni Nail. Locate a faint trail going down from the road. A short walk down the trail leads to the flat area by the starting chimney at the base of Superpin.
The best way to get off the Superpin is to drop one end of the rope on the west side of the Pin (towards the start of the climb), and the other to the east side, to the landing between the Superpin and Tricouni Nail. Rap the west side and clean the route while the belayer holds the east end of the rope. There is a small groove on top of Superpin, which makes this rappel very safe. Do not leave any slings on top. Thanks to Dave Groth for the rappel beta.