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Routes in Totem Pole

Totem Pole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Lawrence Coveney, Percy Olton, and Marguerite Schnellbacher (1936)
Page Views: 1,331 total, 10/month
Shared By: DaveB on Jun 14, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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8 Opinions

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Description

Though historic (via first ascent party), the climbing quality is just so-so...nothing to write home about.

Ascend chimney, flake, establish belay at bolt, flake, etc. Move left around corner, up second chimney - big pro if you got it - (Note - some rate this section as 10b!), climb face to top.

Location

Route begins immediately above guardrail.

Protection

Standard rack. Large cam for second chimney. Anchors.
Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
I would say the climbing is better than just so so. Fritz had a good eye for classic routes and this is one of them. It is quite hard for the grade but probably not 10c as given in a new guide. It is easily protectable with a big piece then just some had offwidth/squeeze chimney moves. Bring some long runners to sling a couple of horns. The anchors are fat bolts with chains in '09. Jul 28, 2009
DaveB
 
DaveB  
 
"...According to the photo of the FA, the route doesn;t go up the chimney at the start, but instead climbs up the rib/arete right of the chimney, then traverses..."

Yep, that seems to be the case in Photo #2 of the FA collage, though unsure of the actual path taken to that point. May 11, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
There is now a bomber bolt & chain anchor on the summit. One rap with a single 60m cord will get you to the ground on the SE side. The rock quality, especially in the opening chimney, is not quite up to the standard of the rest of the pins.

EDIT to add (21 Apr 09): According to the photo of the FA, the route doesn;t go up the chimney at the start, but instead climbs up the rib/arete right of the chimney, then traverses left to the stance at the top of the flake. Sep 2, 2008