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Good Zion Free routes?

Original Post
M L · · Sonora, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 195

Hey! I had a blast on Iron Messiah and was wondering if anyone could clue me into some great (or at least good) Zion (or close by) free routes?

Gracias!
-Mike

M L · · Sonora, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 195

thanks!

Joe Auer · · State Of Deseret · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 375
Shune's Buttress

is awesome. Definately a step up from Iron Messiah but one of the best in Zion.

M L · · Sonora, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 195

Yeah, sounds like that's a good one!
Thanks for the 2nd recc on that
-M

Kevin Hansen · · Melba Idaho · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 130
Craig Martin wrote:A couple of shorter climbs that are very good, The Headache Ashtar Command

I got the onsight of "the headache" this Saturday and boy was it a trip! THat's a climb I could do again and again. Don't let the first 20 feet fool you, there are some rests occasionaly. Made me feel good seeing the rope hung away from the wall looking down from the first pitch.
I think I found my trad leading limit for now.
Kevin

Michael Schneiter · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 10,517

Some others to look into: Bits and Pieces, Voice From the Dust, Monkeyfinger, Sunlight Buttress in Kolob, Equinox.

Kevin Hansen · · Melba Idaho · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 130
Michael Schneiter wrote:Some others to look into: Bits and Pieces, Voice From the Dust, Monkeyfinger, Sunlight Buttress in Kolob, Equinox.

I've heard Equinox described as a pucker fest and I've heard it as super tame and fun. Which is it?
Kevin

Kevin Hansen · · Melba Idaho · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 130

While I was there on Saturday, we bumped into Swiss folks (real nice) and they said that there was some rock fall on "The West side of the River" area. They went to climb "If the Shoe Fits" and they said it was terrable, bad anchors, bad approach, bad everything.
Anyone been out there to confirm?
Kevin

Michael Schneiter · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 10,517
kevinhansen wrote: I've heard Equinox described as a pucker fest and I've heard it as super tame and fun. Which is it? Kevin

I guess it depends on what you're into or what you're looking for. The crux pitch is fairly serious and the chimneys are chimneys.

Caleb Padgett · · Rockville, utah · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 85

Equinox was one of the first free routes I did in Zion. The crux is 5.10+, and you will hit a ledge if you fall. The chimney has a 50' runnout above an aging drilled angle, We were constantly knocking rocks off and each were hit at some point. There are many more routes that are better quality climbing, and safer. Not a horror show but will make most 5.10 climbers pucker.

bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 3,617

There are lots of good routes on the Craigmont wall, above the tunnels.
The Vigil (5.11) on the Watchman is also excellent.

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,541

Brian means "under the tunnels".

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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