Southern-Western Sierra Guidebooks

Mammoth Pools Minarets Rd Climbers Guide Book

2 GB flash drive guide book to the area, $28 per book mail order only

Shuteye Ridge - 2nd Edition - North Sector -

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Shuteye Ridge is a rock climbers paradise housing miles of crags strewn along a picturesque ridge in California’s western Sierra mountains.
The new first half of the Shuteye Ridge 2nd edition is here and ready to ship. Special thanks to everyone who helped support the kickstarter and turn this book into reality!
Back in 2013 the 1st edition was released and then sold out in 2020. It's been 5 long years since a copy was available.
Wait, what? First half? Yes, thats right! The guide book will now be split into two volumes. This first volume "North" are all the crags reached from Oakhurst, which neatly splits the route count of the area in half. The second volume "South" with crags reached from North Fork, will be ready in a year or two. The first edition was a whopping 400+ page epic that some complained was too heavy in their packs. Now the North section alone has an addition of over 100 new routes, new walls and a whole new area. You can imagine with new routes added from the South section, the book could reach 600 pages. That's for sure too heavy to lug up a steep Shuteye Ridge approach! Since it is unlikely that most will travel between the North and South Sections in a day, this new division of the book into two volumes makes good sense.
Shuteye 2nd edition has a quality sewn binding just like the 1st edition. Sewn bindings are unavailable in the USA unfortunately, so South Korea was a good alternative for printing. This is the strongest binding you can get and ensures a long lasting quality book that goes in and out of your pack. It also has an oversized heavy duty cover for protection just like the 1st edition.
What's new compared to the first edition? Updates include: 114 new pitches from 5.6 to 14a in just the North Zone!, an exciting whole new area (Ice Falls), GPS Coordinates for every crag (for the directionally challenged), improved written driving directions with accurate odometer readings turn to turn. Updated route star ratings based on online reviews, drone view photos of Magic Wall, Hidden Eagle and Lost Eagle's walls for brand new topos and overviews. This improved view helps you quickly find the routes and see what the top of the crag looks like for walk offs etc. Grade changes based on reviews and for routes with broken holds. Details on sent projects over the last 10 years, also open projects ripe for sending. A new picture in picture photo layout allows for packing in stacks of many never before seen action photos. On maps, a larger font and arrow size makes reading them easier. Updated hiking info including distance and elevation change.
Those familiar with my guide books know I go through great lengths to get clear photos of the walls to draw accurate topo lines of route paths and anchor locations. I am excited to add the new use of a drone for that perfect birds eye view of some formations, walls and action photos. I also use many ground based photos so when you walk up to the wall you can easily see the starts as well.
Lots of action photos throughout will get you psyched to climb! Action shots give a real feel of the wall and climbing experience. Many photographers including myself have contributed lots of excellent photos over the decades. When ever possible First Ascent photos are included as there is only one chance to capture these special moments in time.
I also have an easy to use color coded system on the topos. Green up to 5.9, Blue 5.10, Orange 5.11, Red 5.12. This allows you to quickly scan a page and choose the grade you are going for. Detailed route descriptions include grade, safety rating (PG-13,R,X), name, star quality rating, length in meters, bolt count and or gear required, route description of what you will encounter, descent options when needed, and the FA Party and date of ascent. It is everything you need to find the route, climb it, have a blast and move on to the next.
I have been climbing here since 2004 and personally climbed about 95% of the routes to verify the information. Lots of research has been done to clarify route paths, route names and first ascent party info.
From the back cover: Welcome to Shuteye Ridge! A climbers paradise housing miles of crags strewn along a picturesque ridge in California’s western Sierra mountains. Renowned for its bullet hard and highly featured granite, this vast area has a huge variety of climbs ranging from easy, low angle multi-pitch to overhanging test pieces. Climbs here are bathed in a beautiful landscape with breathtaking views. This color rock climbing guide presents the North Sector (Areas accessed from Oakhurst). It points the way to amazing boulder fields, fantastic hikes and memorable rock climbs. In your hands lay the keys to adventure.

Oakhurst Select

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Includes a sampling of climbs from : Lewis Creek bouldering, Volcanics sport routes and bouldering, Willow Creek sport and trad climbs, Fresno Dome sport and trad climbs and Shuteye Ridges Chilkoot Lake area bouldering, sport and trad climbs.

This select rock climbing guide is catered towards convenience cragging with short drives and quick approaches in the Oakhurst (Stokehurst) area. A high density of climbs await the traveling climber looking to maximize their time in the area. Also a good resource for local climbers. Most of these areas have never had accurate route and topo info before.

Bouldering, topropes, sport and trad climbs on a variety of rock from Volcanic to Granite. All reached via easy dirt roads for 2wd vehicles.

Published 2022. Full color. Highly accurate turn by turn odometer readings with directions. GPS coordinates for each area. To scale overview maps. Color coded route ratings by difficulty for quick reference. Accurate route descriptions by one of the areas prominent route developers. First ascent details. Drone shots for accurate topos. 56 pages.

Shuteye Ridge Climbers Guide Book

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Latest and Greatest guide book for Shuteye Ridge updated for 2026

A Rock Climber's Guide to California's Shuteye Ridge

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424 pages, color.

FEATURED: A Climber's Guide to Courtright Reservoir & Vicinity

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Welcome to Courtright; a little known area with world class climbing. Know for its awesome thin face adventures, courtright has a huge variety of climbs spanning the spectrum from fun low angle face to steep hard test pieces. Here you will also find the jewel of the western Sierra, Power Dome, with over 20 five-star routes.

Over 40 different formations
Over 400 routes in an area worthy of national park status
A sampler of over 100 Shaver Lake climbs included.
Beautiful climbs, bouldering, hiking, mountain biking, fishing & boating.
ISBN: 978-0-692-03319-7

FEATURED: A Climber's Guide to Courtright Reservoir & Vicinity

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Welcome to Courtright; a little known area with world class climbing. Know for its awesome thin face adventures, courtright has a huge variety of climbs spanning the spectrum from fun low angle face to steep hard test pieces. Here you will also find the jewel of the western Sierra, Power Dome, with over 20 five-star routes.

Over 40 different formations
Over 400 routes in an area worthy of national park status
A sampler of over 100 Shaver Lake climbs included.
Beautiful climbs, bouldering, hiking, mountain biking, fishing & boating.
ISBN: 978-0-692-03319-7

Courtright Reservoir A Select Climbing Guide Book

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New guide book to Courtright Reservoir.

FEATURED: Fresno Dome Rock Climbers Guide - Bonus Crags, Lewis Creek, Lost In The Forest, Ukraine Dome, Willow

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Those familiar with my guide books know I go through great lengths to get clear photos of the walls to draw accurate topo lines of route paths and anchor locations. I am excited to add the new use of a drone for that perfect birds eye view of formations, walls and action photos. This has been super helpful with the 500 foot tall walls on Fresno Dome. Some walls even have their own topos of just the top pitches so you can clearly see the finishes and all the other nearby options for finishes. I also used many ground based photos so when you walk up to the wall you can easily see the starts as well.

Lots of action photos throughout will get you psyched to climb!
Precise driving directions with maps will get you to the different parking areas. Further maps and drone shots of all the approach trails will keep you on the right path. Each area also has gps coordinates for the directionally challenged. Sun/shade information and strategies for different walls are included.

I also use a color coded system on the topos. Green up to 5.9, Blue 5.10, Orange 5.11, Red 5.12. This allows you to quickly scan a page and choose the grade you are going for. Detailed route descriptions include grade, safety rating (PG-13,R,X), name, star quality rating, length in meters, bolt count and or gear required, route description of what you will encounter, descent options when needed, and the FA Party and date of ascent. It is everything you need to find the route, climb it, have a blast and move on to the next.

I have been climbing here since 2004 and personally climbed 95% of the routes to verify the information. Lots of research was needed to clarify some of the route paths, route names and first ascent party info which had been changed or misreported over the years. With help from local developers Mark Spencer, Jerry Anderson, Matt Schutz and others, the record is set straight for an area that has been shrouded in mystery.

Over just the last three years myself and partners have added 78 new pitches from 5.7 to 5.12 to the area. We also did lots of trail work around the dome and replaced many aging bolts and anchors with stainless steel quality hardware.

Nearby bonus crags of Lewis Creek (Bouldering), Lost In The Forest (Enchanted), Upper and Lower Willow Creek, and Ukraine Dome (developed 2022) are included. These add a vast array of single pitch climbing options while in the area.

My sincere thanks to everyone for helping make this all possible! Climb on!

From back cover: Come experience the thrill of rock climbing at Fresno Dome! With an abundance of high-quality granite, this rock climbers’ paradise offers a variety of routes from gear swallowing cracks to gently overhanging sport climbs.

This guide will help you find your way through 376 distinct pitches. Explore some of the highest-featured granite in the western Sierra mountains. Centrally located in California and accessed via a two wheel drive dirt road. With its casual approach and everything from single pitch sport routes to multi-pitch adventures up to 500 feet long, Fresno Dome has something for everyone. Nestled in a 7,000 foot high pine forest with stunning views, plenty of free camping options, and stacks of routes, Fresno Dome is the ideal destination. This all new well researched, full-color and highly accurate guide will unlock the fun. Nearby bonus crags are included adding even more options for adventure. So, grab your gear and get ready for an unforgettable experience!

Oakhurst Select

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Includes a sampling of climbs from : Lewis Creek bouldering, Volcanics sport routes and bouldering, Willow Creek sport and trad climbs, Fresno Dome sport and trad climbs and Shuteye Ridges Chilkoot Lake area bouldering, sport and trad climbs.

This select rock climbing guide is catered towards convenience cragging with short drives and quick approaches in the Oakhurst (Stokehurst) area. A high density of climbs await the traveling climber looking to maximize their time in the area. Also a good resource for local climbers. Most of these areas have never had accurate route and topo info before.

Bouldering, topropes, sport and trad climbs on a variety of rock from Volcanic to Granite. All reached via easy dirt roads for 2wd vehicles.

Published 2022. Full color. Highly accurate turn by turn odometer readings with directions. GPS coordinates for each area. To scale overview maps. Color coded route ratings by difficulty for quick reference. Accurate route descriptions by one of the areas prominent route developers. First ascent details. Drone shots for accurate topos. 56 pages.

Fresno Dome Climbers Guide (2021)

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For all new Fresno Dome rock climbing guide book 2021 contact Mike Arechiga at mikeclimbingdude@aol.com, Flash Drive Publisher Rock climbing guide books.

Southern Yosemite Rock Climbs

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Currently out of print. The buy link goes to Amazon. From the seller's page there:

"Southern Yosemite Rock Climbs is a comprehensive guide to the rock climbing in the uncrowded southern boundary region of Yosemite National Park. These areas include: Mount Starr King Area, Wawona, Fresno Dome (Wamello) Area, The Balls, Mammoth Pool, and Shuteye Ridge. Originally published in 1988, and out of print for several years, this guidebook chronicles 20 years of Southern Yosemite climbing from the early 70s exploration by Royal Robbins and Fred Beckey through the late 80s sport climbing era. This reprint of the original 1988 edition contains first-hand descriptions of the climbs as told by the original ascentionists. In the nearly 20 years since the publication of the Southern Yosemite guide, new approaches have appeared, new routes have been found and climbed, and a new generation of climbers have discovered the adventure of Southern Yosemite."

Oakhurst Select

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Includes a sampling of climbs from : Lewis Creek bouldering, Volcanics sport routes and bouldering, Willow Creek sport and trad climbs, Fresno Dome sport and trad climbs and Shuteye Ridges Chilkoot Lake area bouldering, sport and trad climbs.

This select rock climbing guide is catered towards convenience cragging with short drives and quick approaches in the Oakhurst (Stokehurst) area. A high density of climbs await the traveling climber looking to maximize their time in the area. Also a good resource for local climbers. Most of these areas have never had accurate route and topo info before.

Bouldering, topropes, sport and trad climbs on a variety of rock from Volcanic to Granite. All reached via easy dirt roads for 2wd vehicles.

Published 2022. Full color. Highly accurate turn by turn odometer readings with directions. GPS coordinates for each area. To scale overview maps. Color coded route ratings by difficulty for quick reference. Accurate route descriptions by one of the areas prominent route developers. First ascent details. Drone shots for accurate topos. 56 pages.

Climbers Guide To The Balls

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All new guide book to The Balls

Southern Sierra Rock Climbing: Domelands (Book 3)

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"From the Back Cover. The expansive area of domes and crags just northwest of the Needles is described with photos and topos." Book is out of print. FYI link goes to Amazon.

FEATURED: The Needles Climbing, A Complete Guide (2017)

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From the seller's website: "This guidebook covers every route from the classics to the obscure at the upper Needles, Voodoo Dome, Demon Dome, and the secretive Merlin Dome.

Also covered in detail are Dome Rock and Hermit Spire. The Needles stately neighbor to the south, Dome Rock, is home to more easily accessible classic climbs than any other crag in the southern Sierra. Hermit Spire, easily seen from The Needles approach, stands alone across the Freeman Creek drainage beckoning to adventurous climbers.

Everything you need to know to get there, camp there, climb there, and enjoy rest days is in this book. You will also find interesting reading, including a carefully researched history of Needles area climbing, rounded out by personal accounts from Needles climbers who led the way.

This book is the complete Needles guide. And coming in at 240 pages (only ten more than the 1992 book) it will not be a burden in your pack."

New Direction Cliffs and Kern Slabs (2016)

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"There are upwards of 100 climbs in this new guide to “New Directions Cliffs and Kern Slabs”. This guide encompasses almost all of those climbs. The map-like format makes it very easy to find any particular route, especially those located on New Directions Cliffs, which has several adjacent climbing faces, and which in the past has been difficult to decipher." - Herb Laeger shared on ?this thread?.

Southern Sierra Rock Climbing: Domelands (Book 3)

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From Chockstone Press, Inc.; 1st edition, January 1, 1992. Features a forward by Fred Beckey! Link is to Amazon page.

Southern Sierra Rock Climbing: The Needles

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From Chockstone Press, October 1999. Link is to the Amazon page.

Southern Yosemite Sierra National Forest Climbers Guide Book. 2026

Over 600 pages of routes, areas and climbing info from the Volcanics to Courtright Reservoir and areas in between! Book on 2 GB flash drive $35per book mail order only. Happy climbing Mike A/FDP