Fresno Dome Rock Climbers Guide - Bonus Crags, Lewis Creek, Lost In The Forest, Ukraine Dome, Willow

Grahm Doe / Self Published / 2023

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Those familiar with my guide books know I go through great lengths to get clear photos of the walls to draw accurate topo lines of route paths and anchor locations. I am excited to add the new use of a drone for that perfect birds eye view of formations, walls and action photos. This has been super helpful with the 500 foot tall walls on Fresno Dome. Some walls even have their own topos of just the top pitches so you can clearly see the finishes and all the other nearby options for finishes. I also used many ground based photos so when you walk up to the wall you can easily see the starts as well.

Lots of action photos throughout will get you psyched to climb!
Precise driving directions with maps will get you to the different parking areas. Further maps and drone shots of all the approach trails will keep you on the right path. Each area also has gps coordinates for the directionally challenged. Sun/shade information and strategies for different walls are included.

I also use a color coded system on the topos. Green up to 5.9, Blue 5.10, Orange 5.11, Red 5.12. This allows you to quickly scan a page and choose the grade you are going for. Detailed route descriptions include grade, safety rating (PG-13,R,X), name, star quality rating, length in meters, bolt count and or gear required, route description of what you will encounter, descent options when needed, and the FA Party and date of ascent. It is everything you need to find the route, climb it, have a blast and move on to the next.

I have been climbing here since 2004 and personally climbed 95% of the routes to verify the information. Lots of research was needed to clarify some of the route paths, route names and first ascent party info which had been changed or misreported over the years. With help from local developers Mark Spencer, Jerry Anderson, Matt Schutz and others, the record is set straight for an area that has been shrouded in mystery.

Over just the last three years myself and partners have added 78 new pitches from 5.7 to 5.12 to the area. We also did lots of trail work around the dome and replaced many aging bolts and anchors with stainless steel quality hardware.

Nearby bonus crags of Lewis Creek (Bouldering), Lost In The Forest (Enchanted), Upper and Lower Willow Creek, and Ukraine Dome (developed 2022) are included. These add a vast array of single pitch climbing options while in the area.

My sincere thanks to everyone for helping make this all possible! Climb on!

From back cover: Come experience the thrill of rock climbing at Fresno Dome! With an abundance of high-quality granite, this rock climbers’ paradise offers a variety of routes from gear swallowing cracks to gently overhanging sport climbs.

This guide will help you find your way through 376 distinct pitches. Explore some of the highest-featured granite in the western Sierra mountains. Centrally located in California and accessed via a two wheel drive dirt road. With its casual approach and everything from single pitch sport routes to multi-pitch adventures up to 500 feet long, Fresno Dome has something for everyone. Nestled in a 7,000 foot high pine forest with stunning views, plenty of free camping options, and stacks of routes, Fresno Dome is the ideal destination. This all new well researched, full-color and highly accurate guide will unlock the fun. Nearby bonus crags are included adding even more options for adventure. So, grab your gear and get ready for an unforgettable experience!