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The Aviary Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Aviary

L › R R › L A › Z

	Buteo (Hawk) S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Cassowary TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Chickadee S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Nuthatch S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Shrike S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Terrorbird T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Elevation:	885 ft	270 m
GPS:	48.90842, -88.55875 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	689 total · 20/month
Shared By:	Jared Miller on Aug 11, 2022
Admins:	Dave Rone Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is the latest area to be developed at Claghorn, with the goal of finding more moderate sport climbs to make Claghorn a little less intimidating to less experienced climbers. The walls are 25-30m and the views of the valley excellent, as with all of Claghorn. There is an access trail to walk to the base of the climbs, and another series of access trails to the tops of all the climbs. All climbs can be set top rope, though you'll probably want to be able to rappel, to save the time scrambling back around to the base. The sport routes are all well bolted, which means you'll need up to 16 draws to climb here. There are also some trad routes on the wall, all with bolted anchors and rap rings. Plenty more development to come, should be another few routes each season. One request is to name each route after a bird.

Getting There

This is the wall to the left of the scramble for Longwall Right. Technically it is between Longwall Left and Longwall Right, but it would be a long walk to get to Longwall Left along the base of the cliff.

Access by taking the same trail as for Longwall Right, ~25-30 mins access. Drive down Black Sturgeon Road and pull off just before the 8km mark. Look for the opening and trail heading in to the bush. Follow the trail until you see the path head into the woods. Continue, crossing over the creek with the log bridge. Stay on the trail until you head up to the boulder field. Continue straight up the boulder field, and exit the field slightly on the right, you'll see the scramble and the first routes of Longwall Right (Maltese Sandwiches).

If accessing the base of the climbs: Turn left just before heading up the gully scramble, and follow along the base of the cliff. Warning: there is a large patch of poison ivy right at the base, I'll look at making a trail detour in the future.

If accessing the tops of climbs: Climb up the gully scramble to the top, using the fixed rope for safety near the top. Once out of the gully, turn immidiately left and climb the next small ledge using the fixed red rope. Continue on this trail until another scamble, also protected with a fixed red rope. Continue and either turn at the first left to access the southern most climbs, continue straight and finally going left again to access the top of Buteo 5.10b. There is a trail running directly along the top between all the climbs, so you can access any climb from the top of any other.