Nuthatch
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
| Type: | Sport, TR, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 48.90842, -88.55875 |
| FA: | Cody Cook, Jared Miller, May 2022. FFA Jared Miller, Cody Cook, May 2022 |
| Page Views: | 298 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Jared Miller on Aug 11, 2022 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone |
Description
A complete adventure from bottom to top. A mix of interesting mantles, a perfect handjam roof move, stemming, slopers, pinches and lots of rests to figure it all out. The route is well protected and so varied in climbing style.
The first bolt can be stick clipped, making the start a little safer. Scramble up the little dirty boulder to the left of the first bolt, and mantle up onto the large ledge, keeping your balance. Once you're up and have clipped the second bolt, the climbing starts in earnest. Find the best holds as you navigate up the weathered weakness in the rock, pushing past the crux to the amazing ledge for a rest above. Enjoy the super fun second half, that turns to stemming and some crack moves as you stay nice and snug in the wedge to the top. Or use the face holds and crimps only for a harder variation.
Some of the clipping is a little awkward in the last third, but the bolts were placed to make falls much safer without getting cheese-grated in the wedge.
Continue to the top, clipping the anchors (rap rings on chains to glue-ins). There's another glue-in and chain further up to make topping out or setting for top rope safer.
Location
Walk along the bottom of the access trail (left before going up the scramble gully) until you arrive in the large amphitheatre. Look for the roof ledge at the far left and the first bolt on the face below the ledge.
If accessing the top: Head up the scramble, turn immidiately left and walk up the small cliff using the red rope. Continue to the second scramble with the red rope. Continue straight down the trail and look for a turn on your left. Take this trail down to the cliff top. Once you enter the open area at the top of the cliff, the anchors will be on the face, on teh right hand side, below a large flat rock. Look for the chain above the anchors, used to safely set up top rope.



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