Buteo (Hawk)

This climb is pure joy from bottom to top, with a very endurance based, pumpy character. The climbing is interesting all the way, with the crux only slightly harder than the rest of the route. The climbing style is technical, rewarding good technique, conservation of energy and footwork over strength.

It begins to the right of the first boltt, staying to the right until the fifth bolt, where you traverse left to a beautiful rest before entering the techy second half, staying just to the right of the arete. 

Consider stick clipping the first bolt, it's a little ways up to avoid the roof and poor rock quality at the bottom.

The feeling of exposure is wonderful, and the view from the top spectacular.

Found about 150m to the North of the access gully for Longwall Right. We have pushed in and cleaned up access trails to the top and bottom. 

To access the bottom of the climb, start at the gully and turn immediately North (left) along the base of the cliff. Beware the patch of poison ivy at the start of this trail. Follow the access trail along the bottom of the cliff for ~150m, past the amphitheatre with other bolted climbs, to the prominent open area and arete of Buteo. 

To access from the top of the climb, walk up the gully and turn immediately North (left) to follow the access trail. Climb the small cliff using the red rope and continue to another scramble, also protected by a red rope. After this, continue straight ~100m until the trail turns left. This would be the second left, the first left leads to the top of Nuthatch, etc. There is an access trail from Nuthatch directly along the top to Buteo as well, so all is not lost if you take a wrong turn.

Look for the single chain at the top, used to safely access the anchor on the face and set for top rope.

11 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rap rings. No extendable draws needed, rope drag minimal.