Elevation: 1,559 ft
GPS: 44.009, -71.225 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 272 total · 48/month
Shared By: dragons on Aug 6, 2019
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

This area is kind of difficult to get to, and doesn't appear to be frequently used. Even so, some of the rock looks superb! The cliff faces south and gets plenty of sun during the summer.

Getting There

Take the Boulder Loop Trail counterclockwise. You will cross three gullies which descend steeply over the trail from the left side. The gullies sometimes, but not always, have water running down them. After you cross the first gully, which is usually dry, you can see Lost Horizon rising up on your left. Continue on and you'll cross a second gully, not quite so steep, which is frequently wet. Finally, you'll cross a third gully, also often wet. At this point, continue on the trail a bit uphill for a few minutes. There's no distinct trail to get to the cliff, so it will help to use GPS. On the right of the trail, you'll see a kind of peaked, narrow boulder, (Photo) a sign that you should now cut into the woods to your left and head towards the hill in the distance. There will also be a small boulder right next to the trail. (Photo of green, moss-covered boulder)

After walking left into the woods for a minute, you should see a large, blocky, orange boulder. Try to keep that to your right. There's a slight ridge on the left which heads up toward the cliff, so if you follow that it can help keep you on track.

It is very hard to see the cliff until you're quite close to it. This is partly due to tree cover, and partly because the cliff starts high up on a terrace. As noted in Jerry Handren's "North Conway Rock Climbs", you may want to trend a bit left when you start to see the cliff. At this point, hopefully, you should see signs of wear in the ground which mark a faint trail. You can follow the trail up left, then make a slight switchback right and up, past a large pine tree (watch for sap in summer), and then you'll be up at the face of the cliff. There's a cairn here. "The Hawk" (5.7) is right of here. It took us about 45 minutes from the parking lot to get to this spot; ymmv.

It actually looks a bit dicey getting from the cairn over to "Perez Dihedrals". If you don't like the look of the traverse, you can return via the switchback, and then follow the trail to climber's right, to move up a dirty ramp that ends at a large lichen-covered block, and go up a dirt-filled crack for "Perez Dihedrals". That's also a bit sketchy, but seems an easier approach.

1 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Far Cliff - The Right End Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments