Elevation: 1,706 ft
GPS: 34.95749, -82.79016
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 181,566 total · 2,464/month
Shared By: Tom Caldwell on Sep 11, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Tom Caldwell, Steve Lineberry
Access Issue: Neighborhood Parking Details

The Warmest Spot in South Carolina

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Big Rock has a large variety of bouldering and rope climbing. The area is reminiscent of a little Joshua Tree with small formations protruding everywhere. The climbing is SE to SW, making it a great winter destination. In the warmer months, the area is a jungle infested with things that want to bite and sting you. Most of the formations are separated from the cliff line, which allows water to flow around them. This means that the area dries almost immediately after the rain stops.

This is a day use only area. No camping or lingering in the parking lot. The new lot is located in the neighborhood. Be mindful of the surrounding neighbors. Do not park along the road. If the lot is full, go to the intersection of Preston McDaniel and Nine Times Road and use the old trail head. Practice leave no trace ethics as Big Rock can be a busy location.

The rock here is granite of varying degrees of quality. Some of the starts can be a little more flakey. The climbs will likely clean up with time. Most of the climbing here has already been established. Please consult with someone from the CCC or one of the listed first ascensionists before adding hardware. This isn't to discourage development, but more of a reaction to unknown individuals adding hardware in bad locations or poor rock quality.

Getting There

Main Parking
Directions:
Parking is the gravel parking lot on Big Rock Lake Road, Pickens, SC. It is labeled with a "P" on a post on the road. The lot was built by Naturaland Trust with the help of the Carolina Climbers Coalition through a REI grant. Follow the trails from the lot to the cliff and the boulders.
Access notes:
Only use the existing trail system. Camping is not allowed. No alcoholic beverages. Please be respectful of local residents - keep a low profile in the parking lot, keep the noise down and drive slowly on the road. Do not turn into driveways of nearby homes to turn around.  
 The trail going up to the X-Wall (right fork) was constructed by a group of volunteers October 2017 at a trail day hosted by the Carolina Climbers Coalition. It still needs some work.  The left trail has been rerouted and built by CCC volunteers and the C4 Team in 2020.  The main lot is in a neighborhood and comes with some special considerations. Please be mindful of the neighbors and do not park overnight, linger in the parking lot, cause excessive noise, speed, or park along the road if the lot is full. If the lot is full, you must use the Alternative Parking area. 0.25 miles.

Alternative Parking
If you discover that the Main Parking lot is full, exit the neighborhood and drive to the intersection of Preston McDaniel Road and Nine Times Road. Here there is a gravel parking lot and a large grassy lot. Walk across the street from the gravel lot to a log railing. Follow the logging road 200' until it turns left, stay straight instead aiming for a set of tracks made by an earth mover just right of the power lines. Follow the tracks up the hill until you reach the saddle and turn right. Continue for another 100 yards until the trail turns left and goes steeply up the hill. Follow this until you reach the ridge line and turn right on another old logging road. Follow this until you are intersected with another logging road on the right, turn here and immediately turn left on a low angled slab. Follow this for 200' and you'll be at the left shoulder of Big Rock near the Inversion Wall. ~1.25 miles

132 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Rock Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 28
Traffic Jam
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 29
How Do You Want Your Eggs
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 28
Ramp Arete
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Sport Route #1
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
Daddy Day Care
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
Flakey
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
Grass Fed
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
The Underdog
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
Wondercrack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 33
S Crack
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 20
Black Bug (aka The Dihedral)
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
Big Rock Candy Direct
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 21
Stellar Slab
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 12
The Flake
Trad, TR
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
Big Rock Candy Arete
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Traffic Jam Lower Shaman Wall
 28
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
How Do You Want Your Eggs Flowering Hominid Wall
 29
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Ramp Arete Main Wall
 28
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Sport Route #1 X-Wall
 32
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Daddy Day Care Upper Shaman Wall
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Flakey Main Wall
 42
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Grass Fed Upper Shaman Wall
 27
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Underdog Arch Wall
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Wondercrack Main Wall
 18
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
S Crack Main Wall
 33
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Black Bug (aka The Dihedral) Inversion Wall
 20
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Big Rock Candy Direct Main Wall
 18
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Stellar Slab Lower Shaman Wall
 21
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
The Flake Lower Shaman Wall
 12
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, TR
Big Rock Candy Arete Main Wall
 17
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Big Rock Mountain »

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