Elevation: 1,706 ft
GPS: 34.958, -82.789 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 77,636 total · 2,092/month
Shared By: Tom Caldwell on Sep 11, 2017 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Tom Caldwell
Access Issue: Neighborhood Parking Details

The Warmest Spot in South Carolina

vimeo.com/207048710

Big Rock has a large variety of bouldering and rope climbing. The area is reminiscent of a little Joshua Tree with small formations protruding everywhere. The climbing is SE to SW, making it a great winter destination. In the warmer months, the area is a jungle infested with things that want to bite and sting you. Most of the formations are separated from the cliff line, which allows water to flow around them. This means that the area dries almost immediately after the rain stops.

This is a day use only area. No camping or lingering in the parking lot. The new lot is located in the neighborhood. Be mindful of the surrounding neighbors. Do not park along the road. If the lot is full, go to the intersection of Preston McDaniel and Nine Times Road and use the old trail head. Practice leave no trace ethics as Big Rock can be a busy location.

The rock here is granite of varying degrees of quality. Some of the starts can be a little more flakey. The climbs will likely clean up with time. Most of the climbing here has already been established. Please consult with someone from the CCC or one of the listed first ascensionists before adding hardware. This isn't to discourage development, but more of a reaction to unknown individuals adding hardware in bad locations or poor rock quality.

Getting There

Main Parking
Directions:
Parking is the gravel parking lot on Big Rock Lake Road, Pickens, SC. It is labeled with a "P" on a post on the road. The lot was built by Naturaland Trust with the help of the Carolina Climbers Coalition through a REI grant. Follow the trails from the lot to the cliff and the boulders.
Access notes:
Only use the existing trail system. Camping is not allowed. No alcoholic beverages. Please be respectful of local residents - keep a low profile in the parking lot, keep the noise down and drive slowly on the road. Do not turn into driveways of nearby homes to turn around.  
 The trail going up to the X-Wall (right fork) was constructed by a group of volunteers October 2017 at a trail day hosted by the Carolina Climbers Coalition. It still needs some work.  The left trail has been rerouted and built by CCC volunteers and the C4 Team in 2020.  The main lot is in a neighborhood and comes with some special considerations. Please be mindful of the neighbors and do not park overnight, linger in the parking lot, cause excessive noise, speed, or park along the road if the lot is full. If the lot is full, you must use the Alternative Parking area. 0.25 miles.

Alternative Parking
If you discover that the Main Parking lot is full, exit the neighborhood and drive to the intersection of Preston McDaniel Road and Nine Times Road. Here there is a gravel parking lot and a large grassy lot. Walk across the street from the gravel lot to a log railing. Follow the logging road 200' until it turns left, stay straight instead aiming for a set of tracks made by an earth mover just right of the power lines. Follow the tracks up the hill until you reach the saddle and turn right. Continue for another 100 yards until the trail turns left and goes steeply up the hill. Follow this until you reach the ridge line and turn right on another old logging road. Follow this until you are intersected with another logging road on the right, turn here and immediately turn left on a low angled slab. Follow this for 200' and you'll be at the left shoulder of Big Rock near the Inversion Wall. ~1.25 miles

87 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Big Rock Mountain Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Big Rock Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 12
How Do You Want Your Eggs
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
Ramp Arete
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
Sport Route #1
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
Flakey
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
Wondercrack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Mental Misstep
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
S Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Triple F
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Similax Crack
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 12
Black Bug (aka The Dihedral)
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
Big Rock Candy Direct
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 14
Stellar Slab
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Free Ranged
Sport, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
Picken & Grinnin'
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
Big Rock Candy Arete
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
How Do You Want Your Eggs Hominid Wall
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Ramp Arete Main Wall
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Sport Route #1 X-Wall
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Flakey Main Wall
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Wondercrack Main Wall
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Mental Misstep X-Wall
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
S Crack Main Wall
 21
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Triple F Arch Wall
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Similax Crack Upper Shaman Wall
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Black Bug (aka The Dihedral) Inversion Wall
 12
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Big Rock Candy Direct Main Wall
 12
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Stellar Slab Lower Shaman Wall
 14
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Free Ranged Upper Shaman Wall
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Picken & Grinnin' Main Wall
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Big Rock Candy Arete Main Wall
 11
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Big Rock Mountain »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos