Anonymous Statement
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m) |
| GPS: | 34.95788, -82.78624 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 903 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Dec 11, 2020 |
| Admins: | Tom Caldwell, Steve Lineberry |
Description
This is one of the pairs of oldest routes at Big Rock. The hardware was ancient and rusty (90's), so they were removed last year. The hangers had silicone behind them, meaning it wasn't done ground up. The bolts were also in confusing locations that didn't serve the route well as the route had an R/X rating. Rap bolting R/X routes doesn't make sense. The original FA party could not be located to inquire it's history. At the request of the land managers, the route was updated and re-engineered.
A phenomenally fun slab with some good thin climbing. Start on the lower ledge before I'm Wet. Make some tough moves off the ground to gain the cool dike. Follow the dike up and left past a few bolts before reaching the steeper face. Follow good feet to the first bolt in the steeper section. Make thin technical moves past several more bolts in the white slab before reaching the horizontal crack. Get a piece of gear in the crack and pull onto the apron. Move slightly right below the bulge, clip the bolt, and pull another hard sequence to get onto the bulge. Continue up the thin face past several more bolts, watch for thin loose rock up here. Continue past the old anchor where only one bolt remains, keep climbing until you reach the tree ledge.



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