Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,544 total · 55/month
Shared By: Mark O'Neal on Feb 3, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Tom Caldwell, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Climb the obvious arching flake past two bolts then up onto the easier face past two more bolts to the anchor. Really a fun route for the grade.

This can be climbed as a pure Sport route but the bolts are oddly placed so it feels better with some trad gear if you're new at the grade. You can place a #3 in the crack between bolts 1 & 2. It's pretty easy climbing past bolt 3. There's a weird slab move you have to do before you can clip bolt 5. Look for a #2 placement on the left to feel better about it or if the feet are wet. Make the slab move crux after clipping bolt 5 and run it to the anchor

There is an anchor on top of the next smaller ledge at the start that you can anchor your belayer too if desired. Also be careful when on the ledge to not kick anything off as it will fall down on anyone climbing S-Crack

Location Suggest change

Above the S-Crack is a ledge. Walk around to the left side and scramble up onto the ledge.

Protection Suggest change

Five bolts plus optional #2 & #3. Bolted anchor with no rings

Thread the Metolius rap anchors to lower. They are designed for that