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Big Rock Candy Arete
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 17
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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5.9 Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Big Rock Candy Arete T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Big Rock Candy Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Booger Picken S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dr. Strangelove S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Flakey T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heat Wave T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Optical Delusion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Picken & Grinnin' T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Picken' on the Fat Kid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Ramp Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Raven Rookery T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Seams Impossible T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Slim Pickens S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Thar Be Dragons (Slab Ramp) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thin Skin S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unknown Slab T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vultures S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wide Way or the Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wondercrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Nathan Brown, Tom Caldwell |
| Page Views: | 2,450 total · 45/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Dec 31, 2018 |
| Admins: | Tom Caldwell, Steve Lineberry |
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Access Issue: Neighborhood Parking
Details
Please be mindful of the neighbors on Big Rock Lake Road. Do not park along the road, generate excessive noise in the parking lot or at the cliff, or camp out. If the parking is full, use the spot at the intersection of Preston McDaniel and Nine Times Roads. This is a neighborhood, drive slow and be courteous. Violating one of these rules is an easy way to get the cliff shutdown for everyone.
Description
This is one of the most classic lines at Big Rock. It has high quality rock, unique granite features, and great movement. Not to be missed if you are climbing at the grade.
Gain access to the bolts on the Main Wall alcove by either climbing the 5.9 OW to the left, or BR Candy Direct to the right. Look for a set of three bolts next to an overhanging flake rail. Ride these hero sized jugs to the third bolt and the stopper crux. Move left around the arete on the face that has amazing knobs. Tech your way past two bolts to gain the ramp. Move up the ramp and step back right when easy. Easy run to the anchors.
This pitch is easily top accessible. You can also rap twice to the ground with a 60m or once with a 70m. You can also link the 5.9 OW into this climb for a ~115' pitch.
Gain access to the bolts on the Main Wall alcove by either climbing the 5.9 OW to the left, or BR Candy Direct to the right. Look for a set of three bolts next to an overhanging flake rail. Ride these hero sized jugs to the third bolt and the stopper crux. Move left around the arete on the face that has amazing knobs. Tech your way past two bolts to gain the ramp. Move up the ramp and step back right when easy. Easy run to the anchors.
This pitch is easily top accessible. You can also rap twice to the ground with a 60m or once with a 70m. You can also link the 5.9 OW into this climb for a ~115' pitch.
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