Rush Rock Climbing
|GPS:||37.813, -119.108 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||kenr on Aug 8, 2016|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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DescriptionVariety of routes on interesting featured granite, most in the 70-130 ft range.
Some multi-pitch possibilities, but the bigger "adventure" routes usually include sections of non-difficulty scrambling.
This crag is big: almost 1000 feet wide.
Most sectors are WSW-facing, but the (farther) Grimsel sectors are more NW-facing.
As of August 2016, several sectors are fully open for development, with no routes known so far. Pretty much all the sectors have parts open for more more routes at a variety of difficulty grades.
Top-Roping? Several opportunities to reach the top of the first pitches with easier climbing or scrambling.
warning: The rock in this area has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
"Rush" name is for Rush Creek, which must be crossed to reach the rock, which is critical for the history of the climbing, and which is the special view from getting up on the cliff.
Names of sectors: The sectors of the main face are named for Californians who made contributions to climbing and backcountry skiing on the Eastside Sierra or for the world. For the North end, the June Lake Loop is sometimes thought of as a little visit to Switzerland, so those sectors are named after granite areas in Switzerland.
Getting There. . (note that this section of the June Lake Loop road / SR 158 is often closed during winter and early spring. So if you're not sure, check before you drive).
Driving from South: rt 395 North 14.7 miles from Mammoth Lakes exit (or 54 miles N from Bishop). At June Lake junction (gas / convenience store), turn Left (SW) onto rt 158 June Lake Loop and go 9.4 miles (later curving NW then NNE). Along the way pass by June Lake (swimming beach) and through village above Gull Lake with shops, then many curves downhill, then past Silver Lake and Aerie Crag.
. . (to avoid village traffic and see more climbing opps, after 1 mile turn R for Oh Ridge and swimming onto North Shore Rd).
Parking find pull-outs on right in wooded section on slight uphill (2nd pull-out smaller N gives shorter hike). If you reach the Grant Lake Overlook you went too far.
Time driving about half hour 27 miles from Mammoth town main traffic light (or a bit more than an hour 63 miles from Bishop).
Driving from North: rt 396 South 4.3 miles from rt 120 Tioga junction by Lee Vining and Mono Lake. At sign for June Lake loop, turn Right (SW) onto rt 158 and go 6.75 miles, passing by Grant Lake.
Parking find pull-outs just past Grant Lake Overlook on left side in wooded section on slight downhill (1st pull-out smaller N gives shorter hike). If you reach Aerie Crag you went too far.
Time driving about 14 minutes for 11 miles from Tioga junction.
Parking (GPS approx latitude longitude N37.8110 W119.1100) is two pull-outs on East side of wooded section of June Lake Loop road, about 2.3 miles North from the store and bridge at the N end of Silver Lake. Or about 0.15 mile / 250 yards South from the Grant Lake overlook. Smaller pull-out north gives shorter hike.
Hiking approach (8-15 minutes) : see Map | see overview Photo :
From the smaller north pull-out for Parking ... Drop down short steep, then East about 60 feet to a vague unmarked trail. Turn Right (S) onto this about 20 feet over a log. Next turn Left off that trail, and walk 120 feet E to another unmarked trail. Straight across that and immediately diagonal left to reach a "bridge" of four large fallen trees across Rush Creek -- GPS approx latitude longitude (N37.8108 W119.1093). Cross this log bridge.
careful after a cold night: Some of the logs might have patches of invisible ice on them from sprayed creek water freezing. Might want to use micro-spikes (or crampons) -- or try the other approach below instead.
Next from the E side of the log bridge, at first go NE 15-25 feet, then walk E about 65 feet through forest, then up a short steep embankment, and start going Left in the upper half of the steep, emerge onto flat. (Note carefully the appearance of the trees and other features here, so you can find it again on return).
Next walk NNE about 500 feet on trail across sagebrush (passing a few feet W of chopped-off power pole at N37.8115 W119.1085) until reach point (N37.8120 W119.1080). Then turn Right on trail and soon leave the sagebrush and enter forest -- about 150 feet East meet the base of the rock wall of sector 7 Hill (N37.8120 W119.1074). For sectors 1-6 and Grimsel turn left and hike N parallel to the base of the cliffs. For sectors 8-9 turn right and hike up steep on dirt and grass and rocks.
. . Total hiking +135 vertical feet over 0.21 mile distance. Typical range of times 7-14 minutes to sector 7 Hill, then more to reach desired sector.
. . (alt start from Southern pull-out (N37.8095 W119.1098): From the larger Parking, walk N on trail and Left at first fork, after 325 feet turn off R onto vague track and ENE 100 feet to log bridge. Or simpler is to go right at first fork, soon need to clamber over large tree trunk, then continue N along creek to reach the log bridge).
Sectors 8-9 alternate (9-18 minutes): For a shorter way (with a little scrambling) to reach these higher south sectors, see the description page for sector 8 Dostie. (Key point: When go up short steep embankment, in its upper section continue trending Right up to flat).
Wading / hiking approach (8-14 minutes) : see Map | see overview Photo :
At times of low water flow in Rush Creek, it is often possible to hike to the crag starting from parking near the Grant Lake Overlook. Offers a faster way to reach sector 1 Farquhar or the north-side Grimsel sectors.
This requires immersing feet into flowing water and/or mud (or ice?). Rubber-soled sandals and hiking poles recommended. If any doubt about the security of the flow and wading, it's not worth injury or drowning or wrecking phones by immersion - (can use the log bridge instead, though there are water flow or icing conditions where that way might be unsafe also).
The shortest distance is by crossing near some obvious rocks (N37.8150 W119.1107), but the creek is narrower + deeper here, so need to step on the tops of some of the rocks -- some of which are often under water or have slippery moss - (why hiking poles + rubber soles are recommmended).
If the water flows
GPS tracks for hiking/scrambling approaches -- view (or download) on
- - > this Map of the Rush crag
Classic Climbing Routes at Rush
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season