Type: TR, 105 ft (32 m)
FA: Joshua Reinig
Page Views: 414 total · 10/month
Shared By: kenr on Jul 24, 2018
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Aron Quiter

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

:Lots of interesting moves on positive holds. Lower crux sequences requires some strenuous holds with overhang. Upper crux sequence likely includes some blind reaches, so if a leader is not real solid in the difficulty grade, suggest trying it on top-rope first.

directions: Start at the bottom as with the route "CF - Left Corners" or "CF - Left Ledge" up to a wide groove overhanging at bottom with a crack on each side - (just right of the crux crack of "CF - Left Corners") - (a few feet below left from the Left mid-way anchor). Get up through that wide groove.

Variation higher start (skip lower crux): Start at the Left mid-way two-bolt anchor (which is at the intersection of the routes "Left Ledge" and "Right End Ledge"). Up right a few feet, then up left to cross above the anchor. See bolt lines above. The right one is a variation to join the route "Upper Right Face". The next one is for the route "CF Right Groove". So continue past those and up left to join this route.

Above the wide groove with cracks on each side, continue roughly straight up. Aim for face which is right of slanting roof and left of inside corner + chimney on left edge of overhaning bulge with splitter crack. Getting up between those is the crux. Next trend left toward bolt anchor. Then a delicate move to reach a nice hold just a bit above left from two-bolt anchor.
For further entertainment, try to top out onto flat ledge above the two-bolt anchor, to reach higher two-bolt anchor with rappel ring.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

At the Left mid-way anchor . . . which is at the intersection of the routes "Left Ledge" and "Right End Ledge" . . . which is right from the crux crack of the route "CF Left Corners" and above left from the route "Affordable Care".
Could be reached by climbing either of the routes "Left Ledge" and "Right End Ledge", or by climbing the route "Affordable Care", or the first part of the route "CF Left Corners".

Left mid-way anchor is two-bolts-connected-with-climbing-rope, with rappel ring near the bottom of this route.
. . (Bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel. Lower hanger + rappel ring are Plated steel. Installed 2018).

- - > See P on this Photo

Protection

There are some intermediate bolts and there are lower and upper top anchors, but this route is not ready for sport leading, because . . .

The first bolt in the lower crux (wide groove with cracks) will rotate in its hole if turn its nut with a wrench. Also its hanger is slightly loose. This bolt is longer (3.5 inch) than most of the other bolts (2.75 inch). The installer in 2018 was not in a position to diagnose or repair or replace, so surely the best course is to attempt this Variation only on top-rope until expert remedial action is taken.

The third bolt down below from the top will rotate in its hill if turn its nut with a wrench. This is not supposed to happen with proper installation. This bolt is longer (3.5 inch) than most of the other bolts (2.75 inch). The installer in 2018 was not in a position to diagnose or repair or replace, so likely best to only top-rope this route until expert remedial action is taken.

Top-Roping is the way to enjoy this route, until that gets fixed. There are several other bolted routes nearby which can be led up to reach the two-bolt top anchors for this route.

FA Lead? The first person to Lead this route was aware of the problems with those bolts, and made the judgment that it was OK for him to try leading it all the way from the ground to the upper anchor - (did not take any falls).

Anchors . . .

Lower top anchor is two bolts connected by cord, with ramshorn lower-off.
. . . Bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainess steel. Lower hanger + ramshorn/pigstail are 316 Stainless. Installed 2018.

Higher top anchor is two bolts connected by climbing rope, with rappel ring.
. . . Bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainess steel. Lower hanger + rappel ring are Plated steel. Installed 2018.

. . . Intermediate bolts + hangers are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch. Installed 2018.

A long sling or etrier attached to the higher anchor makes it easier (for top-roping) to reach down from ledge to attach climbing rope to the lower anchor set below edge of ledge. The higher anchor is about 5 ft up and 15 ft right from the upper anchor (on protruding rock over small alcove) of route to left of this one. Getting to this higher anchor from there requires getting up and across a slippery dirty loose slope.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Top-Rope: Two-bolt anchor near top of this route, with another bolt anchor above to help protect access to this anchor from other routes across top of this wall.

For ideas on how to get access to top of this route to set up a top anchor, see the Area description page for this sector Dostie.

Photos

0 Comments