9-Chouinard Rock Climbing
|GPS:||37.811, -119.107 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||3,788 total · 67/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on Aug 13, 2016|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Some tall intimidating aretes and faces and corners.
Descent: Simplest way down from most routes which finish at top of cliff is to walk/scramble horizontally to the top of the wide Big Dihedral / open book (easy to identify this on your way up the approach hike), which has a dark V-slot at its top under cap roof. As of 2018 there is rappel station on the wide gentle platform just above its top.
. . . (static rope around big rock, with two Plated-steel snap-lnks for rappel).
Can rappel with single 70-meter rope (not sure if 60m rope works?) down to wide platform at base of Big Dihedral, then scramble down its south side to reach the approach trail, down this and around corner right to base of sector 8 Dostie.
Or with a shorter rope can rappel first to two-bolt anchor at the top of the routes SouthEast Crack and BD Right Crack, then down to the base of the Big Dihedral.
. . . (scrambling around + down to the left (north) trns out to be much longer + trickier + difficult than you'd likely guess -- only if you want that sort of adventure).
Top-Roping: Obvious way to reach the anchor on the platform at the top of the Big Dihedral is to lead the bolted route "One Pine" (or the "BD Left Crack" finish). Another way is to climb either "Upper Right Corner Crack" or "Upper Right Face" of sector Dostie, followed by "Upper Right Exit". Yet another way would be to climb "CF Left Tower + Groove" then scramble up diagonal right to the higher anchor of "CF Left Corner" of sector Dostie and on to the top anchor for "Upper Right Corner Crack", followed by "Upper Right Exit". Least difficult (but dirty and loose with rope drag) is to do a trad lead of of the routes "Hand Traverse" to "Connect High Chouinard".
Name: Yvon Chouinard has given us so many kinds of creatively useful equipment (also clothing) for different styles of climbing. Learned to climb at Stoney Point, started making equipment in Ventura, expanded to the whole world. Special contribution to the Eastside: pioneered ice climbing here - (also wrote the seminal English-language textbook on ice-climbing).
. . (previous name "Envers", short for Envers des Aiguilles, is a major region of the Mont Blanc massif. It is the SouthEast side of the ridge of Chamonix needles, the side away from the main Chamonix valley floor (and so not visible from the town of Chamonix). Many many great multi-pitch climbs on featured granite. Many of those are accessed from the Refuge de l'Envers mountain refuge or "hut").
warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
--> see Map
--> see Photo overview from W
. . . . close-up of Southeast crack + roof routes
GPS tracks for hiking/scrambling approaches -- view (or download) on
- - > this Map of the Rush crag
Classic Climbing Routes at 9-Chouinard
Days w Precip