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Routes in New Quarry

Bitter and Twisted S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bushmen Don't Surf (Chepstow Zombie Finish) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
En Trend T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Crag for Old Men S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Elevation: 133 ft
GPS: 51.467, -2.632 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 206 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Jul 6, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron
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Description

Just round the corner from the Sea Walls is a smaller crag, once confined to obscurity but now undergoing something of a revival. The Quarry shed much of it's reputation as a death-trap (and more than a few loose holds) around 2013, with an extensive cleanup and re-gearing effort. It is now one of the most popular crags in the gorge.

Unfortunately, that popularity came at a price: not only was old fixed gear replaced, a lot of the routes were retro-bolted. Opinions differ on the relative merits of this action (and since the bolts are still there dissent can't be too strong), but it is widely agreed that it should not set a precedent for any new bolts elsewhere in Avon Gorge.

As for conditions, the New Quarry is a bit of a sun-trap, facing South-West and getting all the sun going from late morning onwards. For the most part it dries pretty quickly, but some lines can seep.

The rock quality has already been mentioned. Recently cleaned lines are pretty solid, but some loose rock remains even here. It is advisable not to loiter near the cliff, and to wear a helmet when climbing and (more importantly) belaying. Off the retro-bolted lines, rock quality declines rapidly, from "relatively sound" to XS. The rock seems very prone to polish (or perhaps is just naturally shiny), to the extent that you can practically see your face in some of the holds! It is particularly bad low down, due to the passage of many hands and feet on the "boulder traverse": the main use of the quarry before it was bolted.

Getting There

Park in the main car park beneath the Sea Walls. It is important not to obstruct the gate at the New Quarry, since access may be required to the pumping station at any time.

4 Total Climbs

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Sean Maher
Santa Barbara, CA
Sean Maher   Santa Barbara, CA
There is an excellent (and free) topo for New Quarry put out by Climb Bristol/BMC. Google it. May 7, 2017

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